Mediterranean
Cruise

9 a.m. and we were off to Charlotte. It was raining hard but this did nothing to dampen our excitement. We got checked in easily and my one bag weighed only 45.5 pounds. Hugh had two bags with a combined weight of 80 lbs. Being short has its rewards. We got coffee and biscotti and walked around as we waited for boarding. We boarded on time and took off per schedule. Arrival in Chicago was easy and we made our way to a restaurant and ate lunch. We had a while to wait before we boarded so we read and walked around the international part of the terminal. After a change in boarding gates we boarded and took off on time. We were pleased to find we were on the two seat side of our 767. Service was good and we read, ate, and tried to sleep and then ate again. Our flight landed early and to our amazement there are no immigration papers for Italy. We did have to fill out a health form concerning Swine Flu.

The airport was easy to maneuver and we were at baggage claim long before the bags. When the last bag from the USAIR flight before us was claimed, our luggage started to come through. We were thrilled when the last of our 3 bags were claimed and on the cart. No customs to go through, we were quickly in the terminal and meeting our driver, Gabriel. He had a sign with our name on it and a Mercedes waiting at the curb (just the way I like to travel). We were in the city and at our hotel by 11 a.m. and surprise, surprise, our room was ready.

After a refreshing shower, we headed out and about in Roma. We decided to walk to the Coliseum because the last time we were here it was closed to tourist. This time we did the whole tour and were amazed when our guide told us it was completed in only 8 years and seated 85,000 people. It is amazing to see such work. It was built with 4 levels and you were seated by class; the Nobility on the 1st level, the wealthy businessmen on the 2nd, commoners on the 3rd and women on the 4th. Entrance and food was free.

Our tour continued across the street at the Forum and the Palantine Hill. Here we saw the ruins of the temple of Saturn and Jupiter. It was so large they coined the term palacio (palace) to describe it. We saw the Romulus temple with the oldest locking doors (AD 85) and they have the original key which still works today. It is checked by the historical society once each week. We also visited the Villa Augustus which has the oldest frescoes in existence. This exhibit has only been open to the public (3 days a week) for 8 months. From the Palantine Hill we had a beautiful view of the city and of the Via Sacre or the main street of ancient Rome. We were told the story of the city of love-Amor-Roma. After leaving the Palantino (Forum) we walked back toward our hotel and stopped for dinner at a lovely trattoria. After bruschetta, margharita pizza, and wine we felt more energetic but after we walked a few blocks jet lag set in. We walked back to the hotel and made it an early to bed evening. What a GREAT DAY!

Up at 7 a.m. and boy do we feel better after 12 hours of rest. Getting over no sleep was harder than it used to be. After refreshing showers and a delicious breakfast, we walked to the Coliseum to join our tour of the Catacombs and a chance to see the Pope as he gave the Papal blessing at around noon. It was slightly overcast but the temperature was perfect. How cool to walk the Via Sacre and other ancient Roman streets. Our first stop was the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains). Here we saw the statue of Moses by Michelangelo. This statue was of him before he throws down the tablets- anger is apparent in the bulging veins. Also he has the “horns of knowledge”. We also saw the chains of St. Peter from Jerusalem and from his imprisonment in Rome. They were given to the Vatican and stored. When they were reopened they had meshed together.

After this we boarded vans to the catacombs at San Callisto. These were fascinating; over 500,000 bodies buried in this 4 level tomb alone. There are 40 catacombs in all. This tour made us appreciate the ingenuity of the builders in the 2nd century. From the catacombs we were driven to St. Peters Cathedral (Vatican) to receive the Papal Blessing. We stood in the square and there before us this powerful man. He gave his blessing in Polish, English, French, Italian and Spanish. It was awesome. He made it personal to each group by mentioning special groups that were represented.

Hugh decided we should walk back to the hotel across the Tiber River, past the Piazza Navona with all the cafes, fountains, and people. It was lovely and we then went to the Pantheon and on to the Trevi Fountain. The weather was great and the fountain is a true meeting place for Italians of all ages. We continued our walk up the hill through the Quadrinale to the Spanish Steps. There was a lot of green space in this area and we enjoyed the lovely parks. On our way back to the hotel we stopped in the Basilica Santa Maria Deglis Angeli Dai Matria (angel and mother of Christ). It had bust and articles on Galileo. After a cone of gelato we settled in for reading and a nap.

At dinner time we went to a local trattoria (Familiga) for pasta and wine. After a quick check on our packing we settled in for the night.

Rome pictures

HAPPY BIRTHDAY LORI! We sent Lori an email with lots of b’day wishes and love. It is hard to call because of time differences and work schedules.

We are up late (8a.m.) and showered. Breakfast was at leisure and then it was up to pack the last few things. Our driver picked us up at 11 sharp and it was off to Civitavecchia. Our driver was female and spoke NO English. She could DRIVE! Fast with quick turns and stops was the name of the game out of Roma. We made the 1 ½ hours trip in 55 minutes. She had never been to the port and in usual female style stopped to ask directions. She could not pronounce our ships name and the guard had to ask me. After the stop we made it around the port to the other side and safely to our ship. We were blessed to be able to check right in and board. We had a great buffet lunch in the Lido dining room and then off to our cabin-NO LUGGAGE! Since there was nothing we could do there we joined a tour of the ship. We found this ship to be a small city with anything you could want for a price. We got back to our cabin and found our luggage but unfortunately it was time for the lifeboat drill. We made our way with 1628 others to our station and went through how to survive a disaster.

Back in our cabin we unpacked and truly put things away for the next month. It is hard to believe that we see 7 countries and only have to unpack once. I settled on the verandah to read and Hugh napped a bit. We decided to eat by 7 and go to the show at 8:15. We dressed and at dinner we shared a table with 2 ladies from Santa Clarita, CA, a couple from LA and another couple from Orange County. We were the odd ones out. We had lively dinner conversation and excellent food. We went to the show and had a fun time. It was late and we have had a full day. We laid our clothes out for tomorrow and it was off to bed to read and rest. Tomorrow Florence!

Today we were up at 6 a.m. and having breakfast. At 7:30 we loaded our buses for a trip thru the Italian countryside. The colors were so beautiful with hay (golden), olive trees (dark green), and the orange tile roofs of the farmhouses. Hugh and I chose to do Florence on our own as we have spent several days here in the past and seen all the museums and things that tourist want to see. After walking to the center of the city we saw a man with truly rock hard abs and buns, Michelangelo’s David. This is our 2nd time to see him and he is still magnificent. We also saw Neptune and all the other famous statuary in the square. We were doing a photo tour today and have fun just wandering from place to place. We walked along the Arno and across the Pontevecchio to the Pitti Palace. We window shopped, ate gelato (Hugh has the grande size) and just marveled at the architecture. The weather was just right and the colors here, with the window boxes, tile roofs and even a muskrat swimming in the Arno made it a photographer’s dream city. We hit all the main sites and then just wandered through narrow streets admiring the heavy wooden doors with the ornate door knockers and the grillwork around the windows. This was the perfect way to experience Florence, no lines, no schedule. On the ride back to Livorno we rested and made pictures of the countryside. Back on board ship we stopped for a cup of tea and some cheese before we went to the observation deck to just experience a very busy working port. As I was writing this, I saw a container ship unload, a ferry from Sardinia disembark, and another ferry get underway, all with the mountains, duomas, and bell towers in the background. What a perfect day.

We showered and dressed, headed to dinner and tonight we have such a wonderful dinner group that we stayed late talking and missed the show. Oh well, we will catch it on the 2nd part of our journey.

Would you look at this view-MONACO! Wow, what a busy schedule we had today; up at 6:30, breakfast at 7:15, and on board the bus for Nice at 8. Everything ran very efficiently. The drive out of Monaco was busy and very hard for our driver Thierry. Cecil told us that 30,000 people come into Monaco to work each day from Italy and France. The wages are better and less taxes. The French and Italian Alps are in the background and I can’t take my pictures fast enough. These views alone are worth the trip. We traveled very quickly out of Monaco and into France. As we drove along the coast of Villefranche we were amazed at the number of yachts cruising in the Mediterranean, most of them look like small cruise ships. Money is definitely flowing freely in this part of the world. Cecil gave us a running commentary of French history but needless to say, we were more interested in the villas, vistas, and the gorgeous colors of the Cote de Azur. We saw where Angelina and Brad lived and even the hospital where the twins were born (Cecil said her daughter was born at the same hospital earlier and she surely knew that Brad and Angie were impressed).

We arrived in Nice early and we were able to do a coach tour to get us oriented. Evidently Nice is a very popular spot for the rich and famous to vacation. This was not always so. Early in the 19th and even 20th centuries being at the sea was frowned upon and you only swam in salt water if your physician prescribed it. You also had to be covered from head to toes. Now this is the place to be and be seen but it is also just a lovely town to stroll in with parks and beautiful architecture and of course, the sea. We watched beach rescue teams training and running for them was very hard as the beach is black rock. We strolled along the beach a bit and then spent some time in the local market. The flowers and vegetables were incredible. There were a couple of local artist and I picked up some small watercolors. We walked back through a park area and they had a lovely carousel.

Back on the bus we travelled small cliff roads to a small mountaintop village, Eze. We had been warned that it was a hike up but oh so worth it. We were not disappointed. We made the climb and the rock buildings and winding pathways were beautiful and fun to photograph. There were small shops but just walking by caused us to sneeze –flowers, dried herbs, seem to fill the air with an irritant. We spent our time exploring and all too soon it is time for lunch. We ate in a very French restaurant in the lower village of Eze with Dallas and Beverley from Chattanooga. Our first course was salad Nicose which is so prevalent in the region.

After our late lunch we boarded the bus for the trip back to Monaco where we toured the casino, saw the palace, window shopped, saw the Cathedral (where Grace and Rainier were married and buried) and the National Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium. The views are spectacular as are the cars; every other car is a Ferrari, Bentley, Rolls, Alfa, Porsche, BMW or Mercedes (these were the taxis). Hugh reminded me there were Masserati’s galore. All the homes in Monaco are over 1 million Euros, even the 1 bedroom flats. We got back to the ship at 4:45 and we sailed at 5. I wrote this on my verandah as the coast of the French Riviera slipped by. We were blessed to be on the starboard side and got the coastal view all the way to Barcelona…More later.

Tonight we had a poolside French barbeque complete with crepes Suzette. The entertainment tonight was a very funny British comedienne. At 10:30 it was still light and we were just passing Cannes. We spent some time on the verandah then Goodnight.

This was a sea day and I had big plans. Up at 7 for stretching and aerobics. It was a great workout but required a shower before breakfast. Hugh was still asleep-he knows how to vacation! Off to breakfast at 8:40 and we enjoyed the sea and tea for a very long while. I went off to a Roman Glass Jewelry show-pretty but nothing I couldn’t live without. After that I attended a lecture on acupuncture use in arthritis treatment. Hugh sorted picture files. This was our first down day and we made the most of it. The seminar on acupuncture and Chinese herbal meds was good and I thought of signing up to see if it might help my neck. I also was able to take in a cooking demonstration on shrimp and scallops. Everything turned out great but we don’t have the same quality of seafood back home. Hugh was still in the Explorations Café sorting those pictures. I love days like this!

We had a late light lunch today and in the afternoon we attended a class on flat abs. It was interesting but not really a lot of new information. Eat well, exercise, and detoxify. That’s where they go for the money.

Hugh decided to nap and I headed for the gym and the core body class. This was a killer and I was totally wiped out when I was through. It was a circuit style class and ended with a run. I think I am too old and out of shape for something this vigorous. I made it through the class but it required me to rest on the verandah before showering for dinner. We also watched the travel guide for Barcelona which is our next stop. Tonight was formal night and we went late and then off to the late show afterwards. We had great company and the evening ended on a very pleasant note.

Up a little later today as our tour wasn’t until 9. We lingered at breakfast and had to make a mad dash for the Vista Lounge and the beginning of our tour. On the bus it became very apparent that our group was trouble. At our first stop, which was the main square and lovely, we lost 6 people and the guide had to spend 20 minutes chasing them down while everyone else sat on the bus. When everyone was on board we headed to Gaudi’s Cathedral (Catedral de la Sagrada Familia) that is still in the building stage. The architect did not intend it to be a church, but (typical of the artist), it became an obsession. He had worked almost exclusively on it the last 8 years of his life when he died in 1926. Here we lost four more people and again we sat on the bus until they could be found and herded back. From here we drove through the city and up on the Hilltop to the Olympic site. From here we had a magnificent panoramic view of the city. We made notes of this to revisit this afternoon when we are on our own.There is a tall column at the foot of the promenade that is dedicated to Christopher Columbus. We walked past another of Gaudi’s works, the Casa Mila. We also made it to the flagship store of Lladro. We spent about an hour admiring the beautiful but pricey things there and we saw the largest one in the world, Cleopatra’s Barge. We spent a lot of time exploring markets and just enjoying the city. We didn’t get back to the ship until 9 and had just enough time to eat a bite and get on deck for the sail away at 11. After that it was off to bed. Barcelona pictures

The clock went off just as Mallorca, a Balearic Island off Spain, came in to view. It was early and the sun was already hot. I went onto the verandah to watch us sail into port and there was more to see than I expected.

After breakfast we met for our tour and the lounge was busy. There were a lot of tours today and it seemed most everyone signed up for one. Our number was finally called and we were off with our guide Luis. The marina was huge and filled with very large yachts or small cruise ships. This is the holiday home for a lot of rich important people including Juan Carlos, the King of Spain.

Our first stop was Castillo Bellver, a gothic castle that is over 600 years old. Built to be the summer home of Mallorcan Kings, it spent most of its history as a prison. It is beautifully preserved and sits on a hilltop giving a gorgeous view of the city. We got to roam through the castle museum and see the Roman artifacts that are displayed there. These were part of the collection of Jamie II.

On the way to our next stop, Luis gave us a history lesson- the fact that in its history Mallorca has had Moorish, Roman, independence, and Spanish rule. It is now a self governing Spanish Provence. Palma is the capital and largest city. It is a pretty city with beautiful parks and flowers. It was summer and the population had swollen due to seasonal visitors. We saw our next stop long before we arrived. It was the Seo Cathedral (central) which is quite a Mallorcan landmark. I saw it this morning as we sailed in but did not know its name. Begun in the 13th century, it took almost 400 years to complete. This gothic cathedral has some not so popular changes in its more recent history including lighting and decoration by Gaudi, and another area done by a crazy local artist. I was not able to make pictures as photography is banned.

As we arrived at the cathedral, we got a concert by the military band and we also got to see the changing of the guard at the royal palace which was just across the square from the cathedral. This is special because it only happens every 4-5 years. We enjoyed the cathedral and we got to see 1st hand the changes Gaudi made. The lighting was needed but his style is definitely not gothic.

Our next stop was a 1920’s bullring that is being refurbished. It was an impressive sight and it was easy to imagine people lined up to go in and the cheering and excitement. Hugh and I walked all around the block to make some neat pictures and see more of the city. Most everyone else disappeared into a very conveniently located pearl shop (could this be the reason we got to stop here?). I didn’t need to look. Being a good Southern Belle, I have more pearls that I need already.

We travelled through the city some more and again we got to see the lovely parks and even the summer home of King Juan Carlos. We arrived back at the ship in time for a snack and rest before we sailed away at 5.

Tonight we had reservations for a quiet dinner for 2. Hugh was coughing and we were afraid no one would want to be seated with us. Service was great and then we went to the Broadway show which we enjoyed very much.

Today was a sea day and it was perfect timing for us. Hugh and I along with half the ship are congested and coughing. Today was a day to walk on the promenade deck, relax by the pool, read, sort pictures, and just be lazy. A true vacation day. Tonight was a formal night and we went to dinner and to the show. Tomorrow we will be in North Africa.

Up early!! It was an exciting morning as we arrived in Tunisia. We had a quick breakfast and then we got in the immigration line. We had to have an infrared temperature scan before we could enter the country. From immigration we boarded our bus for a long 8 hour tour. Our guide was Adel and he constantly called us “his people” and told us that this was his heritage. Our trip across town took us through the French area. We were amazed that almost everything was white. It looked very crisp against a cloudless blue sky. Our first stop was the Bardo Museum, an antique palace set in a garden. With its unparalleled collection of mosaics, the Bardo is sometimes likened to the Louvre for its breadth and quality. Most of the mosaics were commissioned between the 2nd and 4th centuries AD to adorn the sumptuous villas of wealthy citizens throughout Tunisia. The rooms of the Bardo are named after the places from which the mosaics were found. It is organized as the country was ruled with the Roman period being the most magnificent. The mosaics from this period are so detailed that they look like paintings. Each one depicts a favorite subject including mythological stories, everyday life, amphitheater games, the sea, and hunting. Some of the mosaics are placed on the floor (most you can walk on), while others are on the walls. Scale ranges from the entire floor space or wall to just a minute space. The detail and color is fantastic. The rooms are huge and the restoration is fantastic.

Our next stop was the governmental square. Here we learned that in Tunisia there is only one type of marriage, the civil one done at the town hall. The square is very elaborate with flags flying everywhere. There was a good view from this spot looking down into the medina area. We walked along the casbah (shaded area) to get to the Medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site. As we entered the narrow streets, centuries slipped away and we felt we were stepping into another world. Small shops, their treasures of brass, olive wood, leather and brightly colored garments spilled out into the streets. We unfortunately had to go to a carpet demonstration in a very warm building. The dust from the carpets’ made a lot of us cough and sneeze and finally we had to leave. As we wound our way out, we past ancient perfumers’, Berber jewelry shops and dried fruit stands. We saw the Olive Mosque and a Roman bath house as we made our way back to the bus. The sun was high and the temp was now 108 degrees.

From the Medina we travelled across Lake Tunis to Carthage. As we travelled we saw the ruins of the Roman aqueducts and the storage tanks for them. The area was beautiful and you could tell that this is an area where the more wealthy Tunisians live. We stopped for lunch and a respite from the heat. We had a buffet of Tunisian food which included couscous their national dish. After lunch we drove to the ruins of Carthage near Byrsa Hill. These are the best remains from the Punic era and they have a beautiful view over the Gulf of Tunis. It was not hard to imagine that this place housed the most beautiful and the richest sea port of ancient times, lasting for centuries until the destruction by the Romans in 146 BC. At that time, Carthage was the greatest contender for regional control and power that the Romans had. Once destroyed it lay in rubble for more than 100 years. The Romans rebuilt in 44 BC and Carthage became the 3rd largest and most important city around the Mediterranean Sea. Estimates show that between 200,000 and 700,000 lived here. Carthage thrived until the arrival of the Arabs. Excavation did not begin until 1857.

We got to see the Antonine (Roman) baths. These baths were once the very largest in the Roman Empire. The main pool was as big as an Olympic pool. The site is not fully excavated but was exciting and educational to see. We walked among the ruins and enjoyed the view of the Mediterranean Sea. As we leave the ruins we travelled around Carthage and were able to see the Presidential palace, national museum, and the ancient storage tanks for the Roman aqueduct system.

On our way back to the harbor we stopped in Sidi Bou Said. Sidi bou Said is a lovely blue and white village perched on the cliffs overlooking the Bay of Tunis. As we followed the winding cobblestone streets we caught a glimpse of the emerald sea with the mountain of Bou Kornine and the southern beaches of Tunis across the bay. Small shops offered antiques, Tunisian handicrafts, lovely silver jewelry and art works. The shop people were very aggressive and almost threatening in their pursuit. We made lots of photos, enjoyed a cool drink, and tried to chase the shade as the temperature is still well above 100 degrees. We got back to the ship just at sailing time. We watched the sail away from the deck but then went to our cabin for a shower. We were very hot and tired. We just rested, checked email, and sorted through our pictures until dinner. Our dinner companions tonight were from Kentucky. He is a HR person and she is a teacher who works from home. They are little like us in that she is a talker and he is very quiet. We found out in a short time they have 5 children and she enjoys Cuban cigars and a good brandy after dinner. She also plays golf every day. The other couple at the table was nice but did not get to talk a lot (evem I had to take a back seat to this Kentuck girl). They were from Cairns, Australia, she was Australian and he was Italian. They had a new grandchild that is almost exactly Hudson’s age. After a lively dinner, we walked around the ship for some exercise, and then headed to the late show. It is a musical comedy and very cute. After that we were off to bed.

While dining last evening we saw mountainous outcrops but only assumed they were the coast of Africa. This morning when the sun came up we realized that this was the island of Sicily. Sicily is very mountainous and we are docked very close to the city center. We had no schedule and took our time getting into the city. Armed only with our curiosity we walked the streets just looking. This is a city of contrast, ancient churches next to designer shops tucked into buildings that are hundreds of years old. It is a busy city and has some very charming areas and some that were a little intimidating. When we reached the heart of the city, the Quattro Canti we were amazed at the architecture. The official name of these 4 corners is Piazza Vigilena named for the Spanish Viceroy who had the sculptures built on the four corners back in 1611. Each of the 4 buildings that comprise the Quattro has three levels covered with Baroque sculptures that were designed by the architect Giulio Lasso. The sculptures illustrate various themes; the 4 seasons, Spanish kings, and various patron saints. From here we walked to one of the most visited sites in Palermo, the Palermo Cathedral officially known as Santa Maria Assunta or Saint Mary of the Assumption. Scholars believe that a temple existed here in Roman times. The cathedral has undergone many expansions and redoes. It is quite large and very beautiful. As we walked around the cathedral we had to dodge other photographers.

As our walk continued we visited the Vucciria Market, another one of Palermo’s street markets with an oriental bazaar atmosphere. Vucciria is French for butcher-shop. There are butchers and fish mongers everywhere and we saw things that I have no intention of eating. The people here have rolling baskets that they bring with them to shop. You can tell that they shop daily, either on their way home from work or during the day with the kids. It is a bustling area. On our way from here we saw some beautiful Baroque and Byzantine Churches but we do not know the history of them and most of them are closed at this time of day. The day is warm and by late afternoon we are tired. We walked back to the ship but find when we get to the harbor, I thought it was left and Hugh thought it was right. We have walked a different way than when we left and we are not sure. I win the battle and Hugh grudgingly follows me. Yeah, I am right and after a much longer walk that I expected we are back where we belong. Back through immigration and then on to the ship. Hot and tired we snacked, changed into bathing suits and rested until dinner. Good dinner, good show, GOODNIGHT!

Today was another port that we decided against an organized tour. We took our time getting up and having breakfast which was probably a mistake as the sun was up and hot before we headed out. Naples is in the Campania region of Italy. This is an area that we have spent time in before, hitting all the main highlights. When we left the port which in itself is quite lovely, our first stop was the Maschio Angioino (Castel Nuovo) at the far end of the harbor. This imposing castle, surrounded by deep moats, was built in 1282. It was modeled on the castle at Angers. A remarkable triumphal arc embellishes the entrances on the town side. We had fun just walking around this before we headed in to the main square of the city, the Piazza del Plebiscito. There are streets going in all directions and it would be easy to just wander all day which is pretty much what we did. There are shops of all kinds to window shop and the smells from the restaurants let you know immediately that this is the home of the pizza. We see the Galleria Umberto with its great glass-roofed arcade, perhaps the largest in the world. Its arching dome is 184 feet tall.

As we continued to walk we made it to Naples University and the Piazza del Gesu Nuovo. This area is decorated with a very gaudy rococo obelisk, dripping with frills and saints. We walked all around this area and it was bustling with students who were still studying for their exams. As we walked back to the harbor, we saw the Duomo, built in the 13th century. We also passed through the Spaccanapoli which is home to many churches. When we arrived back at the harbor, we marveled at the blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It is hard to describe it is so beautiful. We sit on deck and look out at Mt. Vesuvius and watch the Neapolitans whiz by on their Vespas. It was a relaxing day and one filled with some lovely sites.

We exercised on the promenade deck and read by the pool. As usual we have a great dinner and show. It’s off to bed late.

This was our day to rest. We are in Civitavecchia, Italy and the 10 day cruisers left the ship this morning. We don’t have a thing to do and we plan to enjoy it. We got up and went for a brisk walk on the promenade deck and then off to a special breakfast in the formal dining room for those of us who have booked 21 days. The breakfast is great and we enjoyed a couple from Florida who was seated with us. After breakfast Hugh went to the Exploration Lounge and sorted pictures on the laptop and read. Me, I went to an abs class and then up to the pool to read. It is another sunny day but the temperature is nice, not roasting like in Africa. After lunch Hugh and I went for another walk (we are in training for the 5K we are doing for the Susan G. Komen foundation). We met some of the new arrivals and it is hard to believe we have been onboard for 11 days already. We decided to go to a late dinner and we were seated with two sisters from Michigan. Cruising is very new to them and they peppered us with questions. We passed several pleasant hours then off to the preview show and then to bed.

Up early today to view Stromboli, an active volcano off the coast of Sicily. This mountain rises 10,000 feet from the oceans floor and has been in existence since 530 BC. It was very visible and we saw lava flows and ash plumes. It is hard to believe that there is a small village of over 50 people at the base. There are also other small towns that we did not see. All these towns and villages have to be serviced from the mainland to survive. After this spectacular viewing we headed on deck to exercise and then we had breakfast.

9a.m. We headed to the Crows Nest to view our passage through the Straits of Mesina which separate the boot toe of Italy from the Island of Sicily. This moved us from the Tyrrhenian Sea back into the Mediterranean Sea. Tom, our travel guide onboard, told us that this is the area of the Odyssey and Jason and the Argonauts. The cliché “between a rock and a hard place” comes from this area because of the serpents, the sirens and the whirlpools in the mythological tales. This is a beautiful area to sail through and I had no idea that at this geographical point Italy and Sicily are only 1 ½ miles apart. We stayed in the Crows Nest until we were back in the open sea. We sat on our verandah and read and enjoyed the sounds of the sea until lunch. We ate light in preparation for our dinner in the Pinnacle Grill this evening.

This is formal night and we spent a little extra time dressing for dinner. We are seated right away at the Pinnacle Grill. There was Bulgari china, crystal and 2 to 1 service. The meal and company were just perfect and we finished in time to make the Ballroom dancing show and the Captain’s toast. Champagne is flowing tonight and we both agreed it was a perfect day!

I awoke at 5:30, unintentionally, and got a glimpse of Croatia. The blue sea, white buildings and orange tile roofs paint a lovely picture and made it hard to go back to bed. By 6:30 I was sitting on the verandah making pictures as we sailed into the harbor at Dubrovnik. It was a lovely sight and the sun was already high. Funny, the forecast was for 74 degrees and rain. P.J.’s, camera, sun, what more do you need to have a great start to a day. After breakfast and when the all clear was sounded we caught the bus to the Old Town. The trip into the old city was filled with photo opportunities. Old Town refers to a 7th century A.D. Dubrovnik settlement. We arrived at the Pile Gate- one of 4 at this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Pile Gate, built in 1537, is the main entrance to the city from the west. A stone bridge and a wooden drawbridge lead to the gate. Arriving early it was not too hot or crowded. Within the magnificent Tall Walls, it was an open air museum. Everywhere we looked there was history-from the 12 sided fountain built in the 15th century to St. Blaises Church, a Baroque structure opposite town hall. We started our climb up the steps to the top of the wall. The wall is 6350 ft. in length, 20 feet across in some areas, and 80 feet high. Inside was a bustling village with homes, apartments, businesses, markets, and more restaurants than I could imagine. We could hardly make headway because we wanted to capture the views. As we looked around it was hard to believe that in the Serbian attacks of 1991-92 this area had over 1000 direct shell hits.

After several hours atop the wall we descended and walked the labyrinth of streets inside the old town. We went to the seaside where people were swimming in the clear water of the Aegean. We also saw glass bottom boats and pirate ships filled with tourist, all being tossed about in the wind roughened sea. We also saw the St. Ivan fortress which houses the maritime museum and aquarium.

As we wandered through town we stopped at the Franciscan monastery which was built in 1337. It is built in the Baroque style and its cloister is considered to be a masterpiece of architecture in Dubrovnik. We also stopped at a Sephardic Synagogue that is the world’s oldest. From there we made our way to the Stradun/Placa, the most famous street in Dubrovnik and also its favorite promenade. This area is the shortest distance between the east and west walls of the city. This area is the heart of this city and all processions, local events, and markets are here. It was a very lively area and the crowds are starting to gather. As we made our way out of Old Town we passed the Dubrovnik Cathedral and Sponza Palace. They were not open but photos were made in abundance. We also stopped in St. Blaise Church, a baroque church honoring Dubrovnik’s patron saint. The altar here is decorated with a golden statue of the saint. On our way out of the Pile Gate we stopped at Onofrio’s fountain. It was built in 1438 and water flows out of 16 masked faces.

Outside the walls we wandered through modern streets and visited little shops and enjoyed the views of the sea. From here we saw the coastline from a different side and also could enjoy the lovely homes built on the hillside overlooking the sea. When we had as much sun and crowds as we could handle and we caught the shuttle back to the ship again enjoying the views as we descended toward the harbor. We have been so blessed that our ship has been docked at every location and boarding is so easy. We ate a light snack and headed to our cabin to shower, read and rest. Dinner time came and I was not hungry. Hugh went to the Lido deck to eat and I got some soup from room service. I had a headache that would not go away but after I drank a lot of water, soup, tea, I felt better. We think that dehydration may have been the culprit. This evening we got the computer out and looked over our pictures. We have some good ones and we enjoyed remembering where they were made. Off to bed, it’s late!

For several days we have heard the travel lecture on Corfu and now we are ready to take off and explore. Again our ship docked downtown and we can walk where ever we would like to go. We are in Corfu Town which is the capital of Corfu (Kerkyra in Greek) and is one of the most beautiful and elegant towns in Greece. We headed out early again trying to beat the heat. It was cloudy as we began but the sun was popping out by the time we got to the New Fort. This fort was built in 1576 by the Venetians and is strategically located near the Old Harbor. This fort played an import role during World War II when its archways were used as shelters. At the foot of the fort is a monument honoring the 2000 Jews that were taken away and never returned from Auschwitz and Berkinau. As we wandered around the 3 sides we could get to, we found a primary school in part of the fort.

From there we made our way into the heart of the city which is the Esplanade (Spinada Square). One of the main buildings on the square is called the Liston Bldg. and was modeled after buildings in France. This area looks out on the Esplanade and houses the couture shops and upscale restaurants. We roamed through the gardens and found our way to the sea. Here we were able to explore the Old Fortress, located on an islet and joined to the city by a concrete bridge which used to be wooden and removable. This Byzantine fortress was built in 1537 and played a big part in the Turkish siege of 1716.

After leaving the fort we followed the road at water’s edge and enjoyed the view over Garista Bay. We saw an International speed boat race, lots of locals, beautiful waterfront homes, and enjoyed the breeze on our faces. We stopped for snacks and ended up at a small beach area where people were sleeping in the sun. It took us a while to find our way back to the heart of the city and the sun was high and the crowds were out in force. We stopped at a McDonald’s for the WC(toilet) but had to by a diet coke before we could get the code to use it. We walked along the streets which were more bazaar like than shop like. It was fun to look at the displays and smell the wonderful food. The only shop owners that approached us were the jewelers and their business did not look good (darn those gold prices). We stopped to see the palaces of St. Michael and St. George. The views were wonderful and we wandered until we found ourselves back at the ship. It is late and after a light snack we read, download pictures and go on top for the sail away. We took our time showering and dressing and joined Gordon and Alice from Scotland and Ken and Beverly from Australia’s gold coast for a late dinner. We had a long fun dinner and then went to the comedy shop very late. The guy was funny and even the kids that were there could enjoy him. We called Trey to wish him Happy Father’s Day and happy birthday tomorrow. We also talked to Bill and Hugh got an email from Lori and Ron. Time differences make it hard to call them.

Happy birthday Trey!!

Today was our first trip on the mainland of Greece- welcome to Katakolon. We were up early and off on our bus trip to Olympia. Our guide, Arula, was wonderful and she told us about the Greek history of the Peloponnese Coast and also some Greek mythology. In 776BC the first Olympic Games were held as a peace treaty between Sparta and Wilis, and it was soon decided that all Greek states could take part in them as long as they respected the truce that must be held during the games. Because the sacred truce gave the rulers from all over Greece a chance to meet unarmed, Olympia became an important political site. Slaves and women were forbidden from watching. Athletes caught cheating were forced to finance a statue of Zeus where his and his family’s name would be put and what he had done. Then the statue was put near the entrance of the stadium, so that the athletes would see them before the games started as a reminder of what could happen. The first games were only foot races, but grew to include the pentathlon, wrestling, boxing, and pancrateon. All of the competitors were men and they competed in the nude so that no women could infiltrate the games. The winners received a wreath of olive ranches and his hometown would honor him for life.

When we arrived at the ancient ruins the first thing we saw was the Doric style temple of Zeus, built in 472 BC. This is one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. In the center of this temple stood a 12 meter high gold and ivory statue of Zeus, sitting on his throne. The temple had 6 columns in front and 13 columns along each side. It measured 64.12 meters x 27.66 meters and was built on a platform giving it more presence. We saw the gymnasium and the Temple of Hera. Thousands of very large pediments from the many statues that were everywhere littered the ground.

From this area we made our way through the arch and into the stadium. This is the exact path that ancient athletes took. The stadium is huge and the size was supposedly determined by Zeus’s footprint. Next we saw where the Olympic flame is lit before each of the modern games. A ceremony is held at Olympia where a flame is rekindled using a parabolic mirror. After the flame is lit, it is carried to an altar at the Temple of Hera, where the Olympic runners begin the Torch Relay to wherever in the world the Olympics are held. This was an excursion we will not forget. I will appreciate the Olympic Games even more.

When we left the ruins we made a stop in modern Olympia. We did some shopping and I actually made a purchase. I bargained up and down the street until I got a great price on a Greek key necklace and the jeweler gave me some earrings to match. On the bus ride back we saw a lot of olive groves and also some monuments for victims of wrecks along the road. The monuments look like small churches and have a way to burn oil in them. These put our plastic flowers to shame.

When we arrived back in Katakolon, we had an hour before we sailed. This is a busy street with a bazaar like atmosphere. I had fun looking and trying and Hugh endured! I made my 2nd purchase of a cute wrap sweater that I can wear 120 different ways (that what I was told). It has its own website!! I liked it so much that I picked up another for a gift.

Back on the ship it was sailing time but we made no headway. We were on top waiting for the loud horns and nothing happened. Finally the captain came on the intercom and paged a gentleman who had not reboarded. We also found out that several of the tour buses were late getting back. We sailed late and the gentleman that was being paged caught up later by pilot boat. It had been a great day!

This evening we had a great time at dinner but missed the show. Oh well. Katakolon & Olympia, Greece pictures

We had an early wakeup call and we sat on the verandah and watched the sun come up and saw Santorini come into view. After a quick breakfast we headed to the VISTA lounge to go on our tour. By 7:30 we were on our tender heading for the buses. We boarded our bus in the New Port on the island part called Thira. We drove narrow winding roads along the cliff edge to Mt. Profitis Ilias, Santorini’s highest peak. The views from the top were spectacular but it had wispy clouds blowing by so our pictures may not be great. We were amazed at how cool and windy it was at the top. As we headed back down the mountain and across the island we travelled through wine country and the views were lovely. We stopped at the Santo’s winery where we sampled wines and it was not yet noon . They had a very good dessert wine that was very sweet even though it did not contain any sugar or preservatives. The sweetness comes from the grapes being left in the sun for 15 days before pressing. The winery had a most remarkable view from their terraces and everyone enjoyed walking around and making pictures while sipping wine.

When we left the winery, we drove to Oia (eee ya) which is a small village high in the mountains. It is a village that is so charming and photogenic with its white washed Cycladic architecture that it is featured in most Greek brochures. The classic view is the bright white and blue of the church contrasting with the deep blue of the Aegean Sea in the background. Yep, we made that picture, several times. The main area consisted of narrow winding passageways filled with coffee houses, glass shops, jewelry stores, and scenic views. This was a great place to spend several hours and never be bored.

On our bus ride from Oia to Fira Town, we got a Greek history lesson. Santorini is one of the southernmost islands in the Cyclades group. A massive volcanic eruption in 1628 BC blew it apart. This explosion is believed to be the largest such event in recorded history. There is evidence of it in Crete 70 miles away and in petrified trees in California that show a climate change about this time in history.

Fira Town is the capital of the island and the most important village. It is perched on the edge of an impressive cliff 260 meters high and offers a great panorama over the submerged volcano. There are no roads toward the port and it is only accessible by donkey, 600 steps, or by cable car. It is made up of many white painted houses in stepped streets with blue domed churches and sun-bathed verandas. By the time we made our way to the main area we are hot and tired. We stopped for something cold and rested our feet. We enjoyed the glass shops and decided to treat ourselves, family, and friends to the Greek Blue Eye. This is a symbol of protection from the evil eye and is supposed to give good luck to the bearer. Everywhere we went we saw these prominently displayed in homes, restaurants, bathrooms, etc. Personally, I plan to use it as a Christmas ornament.

After we got our fill of the view, we decided to skip the donkey ride (everyone we saw who rode the donkeys could not get rid of the smell) and took the cable car back to the harbor area. The sun was still high, and between the heat, the steps, the glare, and fatigue we were ready to take a break. We got to the harbor and had to make a view stops before we boarded our tender out to the ship. After re-energizing we enjoyed a beautiful sunset over the island before we sailed away.

Up early again today and after a quick breakfast we still had time to make some pictures before leaving on our tour. Our tour guide today was Izzet (Izzy) and as we left Kusadasi he tells us that this area caters to the well-heeled travelers and seasonal residents. The shops are all upscale but are mixed into a bazaar atmosphere. The beaches we passed were beautiful and the hotel’s grand. There was also a huge water park.

As we arrived in Selcuk we saw a fortress on a hill which is where the apostle John was imprisoned. Our first stop was the Virgin Mary’s House in Selcuk. According to Christian traditional beliefs this is the house where the Virgin Mary lived her days after the resurrection of Christ. She was brought to Ephesus by Apostle John.

In 1812 there was a German nun by the name of Sister Ann Catherine Emmerich who visualized the journey of John and Mary to Ephesus. She described the house so vividly and it was recorded. The sister had never travelled anywhere. The house of Virgin Mary is also sacred to Muslims because they recognize Mary as the mother of the prophet Jesus. There is water here that is believed to be holy and have healing powers and can be drunk by anyone. There is a prayer wall where you put your prayer on a piece of paper and place it on the wall. Once a week a priest comes and prays over the wall and then burns the requests so that the ash floats up to the heavens. It was amazing to see the reverence of all the people there.

From Selcuk we headed into Ephesus to visit the ruins. Ephesus is the Aegean’s best preserved ancient city. The busy port was a crossroads for traders. It was the 2nd largest city next to Alexandria 2000 years ago until silt ruined the harbor. Eventually the city was buried layer upon layer. Only 15% of the huge city has been uncovered and from the excavated portion the city spreads 7 km in one direction and 5 km in the other. As we walked the path through the ancient city we saw ruins of the gymnasium and the statue of Nike. When we got to the more commercial area (Curetes Street) Izzy showed us in the sidewalk and on the pillars the fish symbol that we know so well. He said it was a secret way for Christian merchants to let others know of their faith. It could also be used in greeting. One person would make ½ of the symbol and if the other person was Christian they would know to make the 2nd half but a non-Christian would not recognize it.

We saw the mosaic covered Main Street and then we visited the lavatory. This lavatory had running water in a trough beneath your feet. You sat over a hole and when you were through you used your left hand to bring water up to cleanse yourself (left hand for cleansing, right for shaking). We saw Hadrian’s Temple, the Mithradates Gate and then the Celsus Library. The Celsus Library is the largest structure standing and by far the prettiest. Across the intersection from the library we saw the gambling place and the brothel.

As we passed through the gate to the marble road we got to see a re-enactment of a gladiator battle. On our way out we visited the Odeon (small amphitheater) which held 25,000. From Ephesus we headed back to Kusadasi where we were “treated” to a carpet demonstration. This carpet shop was very upscale (Topkapi carpets). We were shown how they heat the silk worm cocoons to loosen the web and then they spin the thread out of the cocoon, getting about one mile per cocoon. This process was interesting but we then had to sit through the weaving and sales pitch. Prices were high but they did serve drinks and Turkish bread. I had apple tea and Hugh had Rafi, Turkish ouzo. The rugs were beautiful but fortunately for our pocketbook we do not need rugs! When we finally escaped the rug shop we took a long walk through the Grand bazaar. We were sailing at 5:30 so we made our way back to the ship. We snacked and went topside for the sail away party. Having decided on a late dinner, we read and relaxed before showering.

Tonight we had an invitation to a cocktail party for those travelers who were on board for 21 days. We had a great dinner with the 2 sisters from MI. and a lovely couple plus a sister from Australia. We were the first to leave so we can make our party. The Crows Nest was hopping when we arrived. Free champagne and wine make for a lively group. We were treated to a comedy show and a guitarist. I was particularly happy when they passed the chocolate covered strawberries. I must say, the Captain throws a nice party! From there we caught the end of the Broadway show and then off to bed.

Today we were back in Greece! We were docked in Piraeus, the port city of Athens. We got up early and hit the gym for 30 minutes of hard exercise. We then walked on the promenade deck to cool down. After breakfast and a shower we boarded our tour bus at 8:15. Our guide gave us a running commentary on what we were seeing as we drove through Piraeus. We saw all three of its natural harbors, the shipping one where we are docked, the one for yachts and smallest one for private boats and fishing. On the drive between the cities we saw 3 Olympic venues, the Tai Kwan do, soccer, and beach volleyball stadiums (2004).

When we arrived in Athens we saw that it is a huge, busy place with about half of Greece’s population living there (5 million). We were told that the Athenians are living better after the Olympic because of the improvements made for the games. The infrastructure of the city was modernized as well as the ports. A lot of the buildings were modernized and renovated as was the airport. Traffic is still a problem and we were very glad to leave the driving to Konstantin.

Our first stop was the restored Olympic Stadium. This stadium, built of marble, is the largest building in Athens, with seating for 60,000 spectators. Although entirely modern (built in 1880’s and restored for the 2004 games) it has the same form and occupies the same site as the ancient stadium where the Panathenaic games were held. The ancient stadium dated back to 335 BC. There was a long line of buses at the stadium but somehow Konstantin got us to the front of the line. We were able to make some pictures although the size makes it impossible to get a good shot. As we travelled toward the Acropolis, we see many Byzantine and Catholic churches. We also saw the National Library, the university which was established immediately after the end of the Turkish domination and also the Hellenic Academy. We just sat back and marveled at how our bus driver maneuvered us through the narrow winding streets even slowing for photos. As we passed the Syntagna Square we saw the tops of the columns from the Temple of Zeus. We saw this well from the Acropolis. We also saw the National Gardens and the old palace they use for special meetings.

Arriving at the Acropolis, we got strict instruction from Georgia, our guide. She was very worried that we would get lost and with about 12,000 people visiting each day we had concerns. Our first stop after entering was the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. Built in 161 AD the structure was used as a theater for various plays and music concerts, and could seat up to 5,000 people. The stage has been restored in marble and has hosted the likes of B.B. King, the Three Tenors, and Yanni. There is a larger theater that was used for plays but it is so well preserved that they do not use it for fear of damage.

Our next stop was the Propylea or entrance gate leading to the Acropolis. It had 3 doors-the largest in the middle was only opened every 4 years for a religious festival. When the Turks took over they stored gunpowder here and it was struck by lightning and destroyed the roof and other areas. The gunpowder was moved to the Parthenon and it also was partially destroyed by cannon fire when the Venetians tried to destroy the Turks gunpowder.

Next stop, the Erectheum. This is the most sacred site of the Acropolis. It is said to be where Poseidon left his trident marks in the rock, and Athena’s olive tree sprouted, in their battle for possession of the city. Here we also saw the Porch of the Six Caryatids (maiden pillars). These are reproductions as the originals are in the museum. It is really two structures, the temple and the porches.

At this point our guide left us on our own to wonder around the Parthenon. We stood in awe of this magnificent structure and have a hard time believing it was built in about 8 years in 435 BC. Considered by many to be one of man’s finest achievements, the flawless proportions feature a gently upward slope, so their form appears to be a perfect rectangle. Look closely-it is not; the columns are slightly widened on one end to create a linear design. The restoration that is in full swing began in the 80’s and is slowly shoring up the foundation, recreating some of the damaged areas with new marble and excavating new areas. This was a wonderful end to the historic part of our trip. We spent our last little bit of time finding our way down the hill, getting a coke, and finding our bus in a parking lot filled with buses. We have been so blessed this trip with good weather. Today was just the right temperature to go tripping around with 12,000 others on top of a mountain.

On the trip back to the ship we get to see the Temple of the Olympian Zeus and Hadrian’s Arch. Everyone was tired and the bus was quiet on the trip back. We got to the ship in time to sail. This was our last stop in Greece. It was a great place to visit and I am sure we will be back to see more. This afternoon we went to the hot tub on deck and then stayed for the sail away party at 5:30. It was neat to see the ship actually back out of the harbor and then make a pivot turn and head out to sea.

Tonight we did not want to dress up so we ate in the Lido dining room and went to the early show, back in our cabin by 10 and reading or sleeping.

This was a sea day and should have been one of rest. Unfortunately we have a tight schedule until afternoon. We slept later but still got up and exercised. Today we had to attend the disembarkation lecture (11 days ago we laughed at the people attending this). We got all the information we needed to make our process easy. After the lecture we were invited to a brunch in the main dining room for frequent Holland America cruisers. It was great food and wine and the others at the table had great tales of their travels. By one o’clock Hugh was sorting the last of the pictures and I was packing. It was easier for us to pack in shifts. It was sad to think of leaving but easy to pack since everything was dirty. After this we went to see the future cruise consultant about some of the cruises in the 2010 brochure. She was able to answer our questions and the prices she gave us were much better than we expected. We have some thinking to do. This was a formal night and we ate late. We were seated with the Scottish couple, Gordon and Alice, and another Australian couple. We had a very lively time and barely made it to the late show. Back in our cabin we sorted through papers and cleaned out drawers.

Today was a short day in port. We were in Mesina, Sicily and we had a tour that took us to Mt. Etna. After breakfast we boarded our bus for the trip out of town. The first part of our trip included about 20 tunnels with only small peeks at the sea and surrounding areas. We then travelled through some lovely countryside with olive tree, citrus trees, and flowers. The small villages were wonderful with varied architecture and always colorful.

When Etna first came into view we stopped for pictures but the heat made it hazy and the pictures were not that clear. The mountain stands at almost 11,000 feet and is the most active volcano in the world and Europe’s largest. We then drove past the village of Taormina perched on a cliff and overlooking the sea. As we climbed toward Mt. Etna the roads became narrow and winding. It was a hard trek for our driver and at one time we had to back down a twisting section so another bus could pass. Near the foot of the volcano, there were a multitude of vineyards and olive groves. As we climbed higher, we saw dense woods until we finally reach the lava flows and volcanic ash. It looked a bit like I imagine hell to look like. We stopped for pictures and then stopped again at a small inn for refreshments. We followed the same road back in and when we arrive in town we spent the last 90 minutes exploring the lovely little town square.

Here we saw the Cathedral Annunziata dei Catalani which dates back to the Norman era. The antique pigna or ornamental lamp outside the church is the oldest relic. The bell tower contains the Orologio Astronomicl (astronomical clock). Built in Strasbourg, it was installed in 1933. Every day at noon this elaborate clock puts on a 30 minute show. I am very sorry we went on a tour and did not stay in town to explore more and see this clock. It was very beautiful! We went back to the ship and the line was a least a block long as everyone had waited until the last minute to board.

Back on the ship we went on deck for the sail away and then headed out for a late lunch. I spent my last afternoon trying disparately to finish a mystery I had checked out of the library (it was due back by 5). At 3, Hugh and I participated in a 5K walk for the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer awareness program. It was a breezy afternoon and there were a lot of participants. We had cheerleaders and lots of water. We finished in the first 10 and felt good about our effort. We grabbed some iced tea and headed to the cabin for the final packing. Suitcases had to be out before bed. We finished and dressed for dinner. It was our night to eat in Canaletto the Italian restaurant on board. The food and service were very good and we went back to our cabin to put the clothes we had on in our suitcases. We made a survey of the room and out went the bags. We made sure we had everything we needed for Sunday including clothes to wear. We have been on ships where people forgot to leave out clothing for the trip home and were in a panic the next morning. Off to bed, tomorrow is a very long two days.

What can I say, we are going home. We had a very early breakfast and really savored our last eggs Benedict and homemade Belgium waffles. We brushed our teeth and grabbed our backpacks and headed for our last trip off the ship. Our suitcases were easy to claim and the bus pulled out in plenty of time. Check in at the airport was easy and we killed time by walking around. Our flight was late taking off and the flight itself, once we were air born, was uneventful. We arrived in Chicago, cleared customs, rechecked our luggage, and waited on our next flight. This flight also was delayed. We had another uneventful flight and landed in Charlotte on Monday morning. Hugh went for the car and I claimed the luggage and we drove home and fell in bed. We woke up at rather odd times and still felt very tired. Our adventure was truly over when I started the first of many loads of laundry. /susan