China & the
Yangtze
River

Today the adventure begins. Gayle and I are up at 6 am (why oh why). We shower and do all the final bag checks. Our bags are so light that we are afraid that we have forgotten something important. When we lift our back packs we realize why our bags are light, these things weigh at ton. After a healthy breakfast we get the shuttle to the airport. Check-in at United is quick and when we make it to T-terminal the security line is short. We arrive at our gate and have lots of time to walk and stretch. We hold off for awhile but finally succumb to Starbucks. We are so trying to limit the caffeine. We board our flight and the next thing we know we are on our way to Chicago.
Well, here we are, good old O’Hare. We only have 40 minutes between our flights and we are starved. We grab some TCBY and board our flight. Our worst nightmare, every seat is filled and this is a typical US flight, the seats are small and the amenities are limited. We have to wedge our backpacks under the seat in front. It will be a long 15 ½ hours. It was hard to know when to sleep because of the 12 hour time difference. We start our reading then they serve a meal. We try our hand at walking in the plane, exercising some, reading some more, etc. but after 8 hours we are tired of our cramped quarters. There is no service on this plane and 15 ½ long hours later (AND 2 MORE VERY ODD MEALS AND SOME RAMEN NOODLES) we are in Hong Kong. Immigration is quick and before long we realize my bag did not arrive. The baggage agent already has a ticket for me saying that my bag is still in Chicago and will arrive by 8 pm tomorrow. No worries, my overstuffed backpack holds all I need. We meet Bill, our Viking River Cruise rep. and he gets us on the bus to our hotel. When we arrive at the Shangri La Kowloon we see first hand the excellent care that we will receive the rest of the trip. Everything is taken care of for us including check-in, luggage, maps, and even suggestions of what might be fun to do before we go to bed. We also meet Grant who will be with us the whole trip and the 14 other travelers for this part of the trip. When we get to our room it is lovely and has a wonderful view. Hong Kong is hot and humid just like home so we shed some of our travel clothes and head out for a walk along the harbor. There is a crowd on the Walk of Stars and we soon realize what they have gathered for. There is great pyrotechnic show with music. Hong Kong is beautiful and even in our stupor we enjoy her energy. We stop for sushi on the waterfront and meander back to the hotel. We get lovely showers and have a cup of our valet -served jasmine tea. Our beds have been turned down and after we pop ½ an ambien each, it is good night, see you in the morning. We should be able to get 8 ½ hours of blessed sleep. YEAH!

The alarm wakes us at 7 and we are rested and ready to roll. The breakfast is fantastic and we have a hard time deciding how much to enjoy. We join our group and we are off to Victoria Peak. We arrived early and beat the crowds. We are also lucky that the clouds are scattered and the view is terrific. From our viewpoint we can see the harbor at work and it is very busy. When we moved around to the south side we saw the side of the island bordering the S. China Sea and the water was green and the scene peaceful. From Victoria we headed to the Stanley Market, a huge open-air area with hundreds of vendors. Bill and Grant discouraged us from shopping for anything that isn’t specific to Hong Kong. They assured us that the selection and the prices will be better on the mainland. We take them at their word and shop with eyes only. Gayle did make a small purchase. The market was busy and I am always amazed at what people will buy.

Next on our journey was the Aberdeen floating village. This is a unique area and everyone had their cameras ready as we boarded our sampan. This village is so fascinating. The boats are bunched together and for all of us the noise and diesel fumes would be hard to deal with. The boats are equipped with A/C, washing machines (DUMPING INTO THE WATER PROBABLY), lots of plants and toys on deck. Most of them are owned by fishermen and they rarely leave the area. The boats are serviced by waste boats, grocery boats, and fuel barges. This is not a lifestyle that most Westerners would adapt to. From this to the Aberdeen Jewelers was a leap. This unique jewelry store has their own design workshops and we can watch the creative process. The finished products are beautiful but pricey. This was a place to look, try, but leave empty handed. When we arrived back at our hotel, Bill and Grant make recommendations for tailors, opticians, jewelers, and restaurants. I was thrilled that their recommended optician was the same one I had used in 1998. After a brief trip to our room, Gayle and I headed out for the afternoon. Our first stop is the optician where after much trying on and discussion, I decided on a great pair of Escada frames for my new sunglasses. After the optician we strolled down Moody Road and enjoyed looking at all the shops, mostly jewelry. We are amazed at the size and colors of the pearls we see. They are huge but unfortunately they also have huge prices. We stopped at the famous Peninsula Hotel to have High Tea. The hotel is very colonial and grand. There was a string quartet on the mezzanine playing softly and the atmosphere is just the touch of luxury and decadence that we needed after yesterdays flight. The tea service was terrific and there was so much food we good not finish it. A summer shower came up during tea so we decided to explore the hotel until it passed. This is truly a grand place. The rain was sporadic and we decided to walk the waterfront dropping into shops during showers. We wandered back to the hotel for a short rest and some time to freshen up. We then headed out for destinations unknown. We just can’t work up enthusiasm for a trip on the Star Ferry in the showers so we explored the Intercontinental Hotel which reportedly has the best Fung Shui in the world. We wandered around the hotel in hopes that we will be the recipient of the wealth of the dragon. Around 8 pm we found this lovely Chinese restaurant, Serenade, overlooking the harbor. They could seat us right away and we enjoyed a light dinner and the view. After dinner it is more on foot exploration of Kowloon. We walked much further than planned as we are busy window shopping. Our hotel is a long way and were not entirely sure of the best route to take. Acting like we have a Y chromosome we walked on instinct and after several backtracks we find ourselves back at the Peninsula Hotel. From here it is a quick trip to our hotel. Hot, tired, and ready to rest, we checked at the desk and guess what, my bag is waiting in our room! What a relief; clean clothes are very much needed in this heat. After a quick face wash and teeth brushing we collapsed into our beds. No reading tonight.

We are both awake by 6:30 am; oh the joys of jet lag. We began the day slowly. It is still sprinkling and way too early to be out and about. We had a leisurely breakfast before we headed to the Star Ferry. We are so good, we found the ferry quickly, paid our fare, and enjoyed the trip across this very busy harbor. Our goal on the other side was to find a landmark so that we can find our way back to the same terminal we came in to. Our first encounter was with the famous Mandarin Oriental Hotel. We made a quick trip through it and ended in its Admiralty Shopping Plaza. We were hot from our ferry ride and decided to window shop in the cool for a bit. We tried on Prada loafers and walked around amazed at the size of this place. There are more shops on this block, especially designer, than all of Greenville and Spartanburg. Our quest for this am was to find the escalator to SoHo but of course we made a wrong turn. We had a great deal of difficulty crossing the streets. Each crossing was elevated and wrapped around buildings. When you got to the other side you were not on the same street that you started out on. We finally succumbed to the heat and stopped at McDonalds for a diet coke. We again asked for directions and without too much trouble we found our way through the heart of Hong Kong Island to the escalator. We made the trip to the top and on the way down we stopped and wandered through the food market. The streets were filled with vendors under tents and this went on for what seemed like miles. It was very crowded and very hot. After a while the smells of fish, chickens (alive and slaughtered), unknown herbs and spices, and people got to us. We were hot and tired by this time and a long way from the Star Ferry. We made a slow journey down the main street and ducked into shops and malls to cool off. We were planning on shopping at Harvey Nichols but when we got there it was closed to shoppers unless you have an invitation (ours must have gotten lost in the mail). After much window shopping and gawking at the humongous pearls displayed in the jewelers we made our way to the ferry and made the return trip to Kowloon. On our way to the hotel we stopped and picked up my glasses. Wow, who is that star in her new Escada’s? We were so hot and weary when we reached the hotel that we rushed up stairs and washed faces and headed to the bar for a non-alcoholic frozen beverage and snacks. This cooled us down, and after munching, resting and people watching we headed up to get ready for the evening. After very little discussion, we decided to stay in the hotel for dinner and made reservations at the Italian restaurant that was recommended to us. After leisurely showers, we went to dinner and enjoyed a superb dinner and glass of wine. We had a lovely view of the harbor and it was peaceful and by the time we were back in our room we were refreshed and ready to read and turn in for the night.

Today we decided not to brave the heat. We slept in, had a leisurely breakfast, read, and of course did that last minute packing before the bags went out at noon. We put our bags out and checked out of our room. We sat in the lobby and read until time to board the bus for the airport. We had not yet bonded with anyone special in our group so we sat quietly and listened to our guide. This was the last time we have to deal with our own baggage at check-in. This was an International flight and we have to clear customs. Who would have thought a flight from Hong Kong to Guilin on the mainland would be considered international? Our check-in went quickly and we had about an hour to wander around the HK airport. There are more designer shops in this airport than on 5th Avenue or Rodeo drive. Wow, a second chance to buy $400 Prada loafers.

Our flight time was one hour and we were on the mainland in the city of Guilin. We were met by our local guide Lancey and soon we were on our way to the Sheraton. The check-in was easy as Grant gave us our keys at the airport and all we had to do was find our room. The room was lovely and after a quick hand washing, we headed to the buffet. Tonight we sat with Wendy and Vince. She is a nursing instructor and he is a Cardiologist. They are from Dallas and have traveled extensively. The food was good and instead of lingering and overeating, the four of us decided to take a stroll along the river. It was 9:30 and still so very, very hot. We walked down to the twin pagodas and then back through the market. We were drenched by the time we got back and from the looks of our fellow travelers that we ran into, everyone will shower before bed.

Today we had to be up early. We embarked on a trip down the Li River. After a good breakfast we checked out of the hotel. We met Lancey and Grant at the bus and off we went. Grant was excited for us to see this area because he spent his summers here with his grandmother. After a short bus ride we boarded the boat. We spent the next two hours marveling at the scenery. This is one of the most distinctive landscapes in the world. The light was not great today and we were concerned about our pictures although we took enough to insure we got at least a few good ones. Lunch was served buffet style and we were seated with Scot and Sylvia a great couple from Boca. Scot enjoyed a glass of snake wine but could not get anyone else to join him. They were funny and very entertaining. We could become a very obnoxious foursome, laughing our crazy heads off at jokes that only we understand. At the end of the cruise we had a funny experience. There was a funny little man on the dock with his cormorants. He was posing for pictures with the birds, but only for a price. As the boat docks he saw us with our cameras and he had his assistants stand in front of him and he turns his back to us. He was serious about getting that one American dollar. Off the boat the temperature rose and the day turned steamy. We were in a large market area that is soon named the hell-o market because as you walked through everyone says "hell-o hell-o" or "one dollar one dollar". Before the heat got to be too much we tried our bargaining skills and learned that if you walk away or ignore the vendors you can get your price. Gayle and I purchased some art of the region and were ready to head to the bus. We had a funny little tram ride to the bus area and the drivers all race to be in the front. We had a 1 hour ride back to Guilin and everyone wais quiet and even Grant held his usually effusive commentary to minimum. Upon arrival in Guilin, we headed to a lovely reflexology salon. Almost all 16 of us opted for the full one hour treatment. The couple sharing our room, Candy and Ted from NYC, enjoyed this as much as we did. Ted sang I’m in Heaven to his masseuse and tried to get her to go to NY. After they massaged our feet they also did our shoulders and heads. This was a lovely treat and a nice prelude to dinner. We had a Chinese style dinner and then headed to the airport for what turned out to be a very late night flight to Shanghai. Our flight was delayed but they allowed us to use a nice lounge for the wait making it more bearable. We finally arrived in Shanghai at 1 am. Grant handed out keys and after tagging our bags we headed to our bus for the 30 minute trip to the hotel. Shortly after we arrived at our room so did our bags. We settled in for a short nights sleep. We have to be up and on the bus by 8:30.

Today we were up at 6:45 and after blowing a fuse while trying to brew tea and blow our hair dry, we headed down to breakfast. This was the day we met the rest of our group. In the lobby Grant handed out name tags and assigned us to two groups. Gayle, Scot, Sylvia, and I are in Grants group, a fact that we are pleased with. Soon we were on our bus and heading to old Shanghai. This is a very lovely area but crowded with tourist. We visited the Yuyuan Gardens first. This was a lovely place and filled with statuary and ponds. You can imagine it was a place of peace during the Han dynasty. After our garden tour we had some shopping time in the old market. Our first stop was Starbucks for something frozen to drink as it was very warm today. Imagine our surprise when we found most of our group in line. Armed with something cool we headed out to bargain. We found some great things including some adorable art renderings of the Chinese astrology signs. We made our purchases and met our group. Next we were off across Shanghai to the Bund. We got our orientation from Grant and as I looked about I was amazed at how much it has changed. Rather than a few tall buildings piercing the sky, the whole area is filled. Gayle and I walked along the river making pictures and had several opportunities to buy Chairman Mao Rolex’s. We declined, but this will probably be a decision that we regret. Today was hazy with the heat and I am not sure my pictures will be clear. Back on the bus we headed across town to a Chinese Embroidery Factory. We had a traditional Chinese lunch (need I say more) and enjoyed looking at the beautiful embroidery. The pictures look like fine drawings but on closer inspection you can see it is all hand sewn. This is the most delicate and fine work I have ever seen. The silk threads are split into 5 separate strands and the girls work for months on one painting. Their use of shading and outline is incredible; so are the prices. Gayle and I saw several kimono pictures we would love to have but cannot justify the expenditure (another decision we will regret). When we left here it was back to the hotel for a rest. Gayle and I were restless and explored the hotel before showering. Tonight we dressed a little more carefully as we are having dinner and then going to an acrobatic show. Our dinner was delicious (Chinese) and our table is rowdy and fun. The acrobatic show was at the Ritz Carlton Theater which is huge and filled to capacity. We have excellent seats and my neighbor is from the Abercrombie Expeditions and cannot stop talking before the show. The show was incredible and the acts are straight from Cirque de Soleil. There was one girl who could put herself into positions that seem humanly impossible while balancing crystal goblets on the soles of her feet, palms of her hands, her forehead and on a frame held between her teeth. The jugglers were wonderful and funny while the tumblers propelled themselves through the air to land on each others shoulders at unbelievable heights. It was all breathtaking and everyone was sad when the evening was over.

We were up on time and headed to the dining room for breakfast. It was smaller than we are used to but they had a good selection and we ate heartily. There was a notice on the bulletin board declaring this as another great Dam Day. After a quick trip to the cabin for cameras we headed to the Observation Lounge for our embarkation lecture by Max, our 6 foot 4 inch Chinese tour director. No lifeboat drill but the life jacket demo was provided. We left the boat at 9:50am and decided to climb the 180 steps to the bus. Boy was this our exercise for today. When we got to the top we were accosted by vendors, one who was a tiny little man in full Chinese garb and the funniest face you have ever seen. We were not in the shopping mood and we know they will be there when we return. Our local guide gave us a complete picture of the construction of the dam and took us through this huge city complete with hospital, schools and shops that were built to accommodate the dam workers. When we got to the dam, boy were we impressed. This dam cost $25 billion and 1.3 million people had to be relocated. The water at this time has risen 171 feet and still has almost 100 feet to go. This site is so different than 1997 when we could only see some land being moved and a model of the finished dam. Back on the ship we had a light lunch of soup and sandwiches followed by dessert of course. We skipped the entrée but not the dessert. At 2pm we headed to Max’s talk on the Yangtze. At 3pm it was anchors away and we were off on the next part of our adventure. Later in the afternoon we joined Max on the Observation deck where he gave us his scenic and historic commentary on our sail through the Xiling Gorge. This gorge is 47 miles long and has historically had the most dangerous of the shoals, eddies, and rapids on the Yangtze. These are no problems since the dam. The scenery was beautiful and cameras were snapping constantly. Gayle and I decided to skip the Chinese lessons and sat on our balcony and read. As we neared time for our welcome cocktail party we showered and changed. We spent the last daylight on our balcony talking to our neighbor Eric. As we were commenting on the sights, Eric and I spotted an adult body floating in the water. We were shocked but after telling the crew it seems to be a rather common occurrence. We also saw pigs floating by. Tonight we had a Martin Yan dinner (remember him, Yan Can Cook). We sat with Ken and Norma, a couple from New Zealand who are booked back to back on all the cruises Viking offers. We turned in early because Gayle was suffering from some allergies that seem to be getting worse.

Gayle and I were up early today. We sent out some laundry and headed for breakfast. Today we ate heartily because we were touring the Lesser Three Gorges and would not be back until late. At embarkation time we were surprised that we only had to walk thru the Viking Century Star that was docked next to us to board the smaller boats that would take us on our journey. The boat was modern and air conditioned, actually too much so-we stood outside much of the trip. The scenery was beautiful but you can truly see the impact of the flooding from the dam. There are signs that show how much more land will be under water. It was hazy and I hope my pictures came out well. I snapped away as we went by monkey’s playing in the trees and the famous hanging coffins. Grant, doing business as usual, was collecting our email addresses so that we may keep in touch and share pictures. When our journey ended we trooped back thru the other ship and headed to the dining room for lunch. We are reminded that this afternoon Max will be narrating the voyage thru the last two gorges. We joined him on the observation deck and after a lot of pictures we settled in to listen to his talk. He was very thorough and I tried to make some notes but my mind kept drifting to the scenery. It started to sprinkle and we moved into the lounge. I listened to my ipod and Gayle read. Soon we were sleepy and retired to our cabin for a quick rest before dinner. Tonight it was a regular dinner and we joined Joann and Joanne. Our table was lively and the food excellent. After dinner we headed to the lounge to listen to the music. They have a Polish duet with keyboard and horns and they were attempting pop music. Several people attempted dancing but after a short time most everyone including us were heading for the cabins to get ready for Fengdu tomorrow.

Up early today and ready for a hearty breakfast. We were given choices for today’s activities. Gayle, Scot, Sylvia, and I chose to go the Snow Jade Cave although the trip to Fengdu city sounded equally good. After gathering our cameras and raincoats we left the ship on route to our buses. We were immediately faced with several hundred steps to climb. You could pay the Chinese entrepreneurs to carry you up in a Sudan like chair but we chose to walk. We had been warned that today would be a strenuous climbing day and we were prepared. Some on our trip availed themselves of this service. We boarded older buses and we were off on our respective trips. The drive to the cave took us along the river and the scenery was grand. Our bus had some trouble with a tire but we made it. The other bus broke down but after some switching of vehicles they made it to their destination. The Snow Jade Cave was a new attraction, having been discovered in the late 90’s. It is well set up and the inside was beautiful. It was cool and dark but the pathways were unobtrusively lit. There were a lot of steps in here and again some of our group had trouble. We moved slowly through and had time to photograph but the lighting was bad. Upon leaving the cave we had some time for potty breaks and a little shopping if you were interested. We made our way back to the bus and the trip back was uneventful. We got to see the new city of Fengdu and again we were dismayed at the sameness of the buildings. Our guide was young and she liked her new apartment but she admitted the older people missed the single family dwellings and the sense of family. When we arrived back in town we were faced with the stairs again but it is much easier going down. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch and then retired to our balcony to read. We will be sailing the final way to Chonquing. At 4pm we headed to the lounge for a traditional tea service. The costumes were lovely and we had someone narrate the entire event. It was very involved and the tea implements they use are exquisite. Our friend Ken’s comment was, boil water, drop in Liptons, add sugar and enjoy. We had a good time and got to sample teas that we had only read about. After the presentation the girls posed for pictures. We headed to the observation lounge to relax and enjoy the last day of our cruise. Tonight is the Captain’s dinner and we are obliged to dress up more than other nights. We spent a little time preparing as we did not bring special outfits. When we arrived at dinner we were met by our servers in traditional colorful costumes. They posed for pictures and there was a lovely Chinese orchestra playing throughout dinner. We were at a table filled with fun and lively people (Red, his wife, the Joanne’s, Ken and Norma). The Captain came around with Max to each table and drank a toast to our trip. The captain spoke no English so the visit was short. Gayle and I finally finished our wine. We sat for a while after dinner and talked to Ken about his future cruises. Tonight was the Crew Talent Show and we headed to the lounge to get good seats. Wow, what a talented group we have. On the audience participation number Ken was chosen to complete a dance ensemble. He was quick to learn the number and even quicker to make up what he didn’t get. He was a huge success. After the show the cruise photographer showed a preview of the cruise video and we decided immediately to buy one, there were great pictures of everyone and some really good shots of scenery and things that we were not sure we had captured. It was off to bed after we had stopped by the desk to get our bill split in half so that each of us could use our credit card. In our room we did last minute packing because bags had to be out early the next morning. We stood on the balcony enjoying the night air one last time.

Today was disembarkation day and our luggage is already gone. After breakfast we waited for our instructions. When we were given the go ahead to leave the ship we were not surprised to find steps awaiting us as we headed to our buses. We met our local guide and started off on our city tour of Chongquing. This is one of China’s largest cities and one of its most polluted. It was very crowded and the traffic makes LA look like a drive in the park. There were lovely old building interspersed with the new and we were told that this was the capital city of China during WWII. It was also the home of the Flying Tigers and there is a great museum that we visited last time. Today our goal was to get to the zoo and see the pandas. When we arrived I am amazed at how beautiful the grounds are. It is an oasis in the midst of this crazy city. We got to stroll through part of the park on our way to the panda house. When we arrived we got to see something I had not seen before, red pandas. They are small and active but just not as cute as the black and white ones. There was a nice facility here, very different than the first time we went to the Beijing zoo. There appeared to be quite a few pandas but only three would come out for us. Our favorite was a chubby cub that was so roly poly and really put on a show. He would roll on his back, feet up in the air, roll over a soccer ball and then sit with the ball in his lap. Very active and oh so cute. We made a lot of pictures before Grant pulled us away. We continued to walk on he grounds and arrived at an art school complete with a gallery selling artworks (surprise, surprise). We got a short intro to the school and the techniques used and then we were given time to shop. The work was lovely and I think almost everyone left with a treasure. Lunch time and guess what, Chinese food. This restaurant had something we had not seen before, people hand making the noodles, no machines. They were incredibly good at getting them consistent in size and very thin. After lunch we continued around the city to the airport where we caught our flight to Xian. Our flight is 2 hours and we sat next to a Chinese elementary student on a field trip with his class. He was seated by the window and was very polite as he got all his possessions in order. He put in his earphones, collected his cookies from the stewardess, and went sound asleep for the whole flight. Gayle and I read through the uneventful flight and in no time we were in Xian. We arrived in the terminal to find Grant with our room keys and luggage tags waiting for us. We tagged our bags and headed for the bus. We did not have time to go to the hotel before our dinner show. Our local guide gave us a brief city tour as we drove in from the airport. This is a walled city and it is a lovely place to explore. We arrived at the Tang Dynasty Dinner Theater in the heart of town. The theater was impressive from the outside but even grander on the inside. It was definitely a tourist place but well done. The stage is huge and we are seated in a good area to enjoy the acts. We ordered our dinner and the fun began. There was music, dancing, acrobatics and just the most colorful and lovely costumes. Everyone seemed to be enjoying the whole experience. This was my second time and I still found it fascinating. By the time the show was over and we are on our bus, we truly looked like road weary travelers. The gift shop at the hotel was still open and Gayle was able to buy some cold medicine. Then it was up to bed for a good nights sleep

Today was an exciting day and we started it off with a good breakfast. When the buses were loaded we headed to the Terra Cotta Soldier Museum. It was a lovely drive from the city and on the way we saw a lot of the burial mounds. When we arrived at the museum I was astounded at how developed it is. The buildings are new and modern and the set-up is very well done. This morning we visited buildings 1 and 3. Grant handed out our wireless headsets so that we are in touch with our fearless leader and our local guide at all times. This was a great idea because it was very crowded and this way we can hear the commentary but did not have to stay together. We walked into the building and the sight was so awe inspiring. Everyone was just amazed at the condition of the horses and soldiers considering they were buried 2000 years ago. The terra cotta looks grey because after they were dug up the air destroyed the color rather quickly. They are taking great precautions now to prevent this from happening to the new areas they are exploring. The air was filled with dust and the rooms were warm. Periodically we had to go outside to get some fresh air. We had some time to shop in the gift shop here before we ate lunch. We bought some soldier miniatures for gifts and went upstairs to eat. After lunch we toured building 2. This was the area with the bronze chariots and soldiers. It was very crowded and extremely hot. We made our way to the larger chariot display and then walked around some of the others before we had to head back to the buses. We were off to the airport again. China is a big country and to see the sights you do a lot of flying. Our flight was to Beijing and we boarded on time, although we had to change gates twice. The flight was not our best; the lighting wais terrible, no service to speak of, and the food box that was dropped in our laps was not edible. The best thing that can be said of this flight is that it left and landed on time. Poor Gayle had to sit by one of our fellow travelers that regaled her with how awful the Great Wall was and how she hoped we did not spend too much time there. Upon arrival Grant was waiting with tags and keys in hand. The local guides make him look good with their prompt arrival with everything we need to transition smoothly. After boarding buses we headed for downtown Beijing. The skyline is impressive and the traffic is non-stop. Grant was very talkative because this is his city. He has wonderful stories to tell and lets us in on some personal info about how he lives. When we arrived we were a little disappointed at the location of our hotel in the financial district; you know us girls would rather be in the shopping district. The hotel was wonderful and was only opened in February. We found we are within walking distance of some things and when we got to our rooms we were impressed. After we cleaned up we head down to dinner. There was one of the largest buffets I have ever seen. It had every kind of cuisine imaginable and they will cook to order also. The desserts were incredible including a Marble Slab type ice cream shop right in the middle of the room. We watched Grant and we were reasonably sure he only ate desserts (better watch out or he’ll lose that slim physique). After dinner we headed to our room to unpack and prepare our things for the trip to the Great Wall. We were told to have everything we would need, sunscreen, cameras, batteries, money, etc. in a bag we could keep with us as we climb because the buses have to park several miles away. Packed and prepared we headed to our beds.

This morning we sampled all the delights of our huge buffet breakfast. We expected to do a lot of climbing and burn off these delicious calories. With bags in hand we loaded our bus and headed out. The country side here was much more mountainous and we were blessed with a clear day. We got to see portions of the Great Wall along the way. When we arrived at the Badaling the bus drop off area was in a little shopping village (we will come back to this later). Our group had opted to get a group shot on the wall so we impatiently awaited our turn. We staged our shoot and the photographer was able to get some good shots. Gayle and I were surprised when after the picture some of our group refused the opportunity to climb and went to sit in the Friendship Store. Gayle and I took on the quest to climb to the top of the first tower to make pictures; once we were there we decided to go on a little further and after much huffing and puffing we found ourselves at the end of this section and we could not go any further. We were extremely impressed with ourselves because the only other people at this point were a group of Boy Scouts. We made our way back and when we arrived back in the village we found a vendor with diet coke and splurged. We did some shopping and even made some purchases in the Olympic Shop. We saved the Friendship Store until last but this proved to be a mistake. The people who had waited there the entire trip had complained (I’m hot, bored, let’s go, etc.) so much that Grant decided to shorten our time. I did convince him to go to the jewelry section and help me bargain for a pair of pearl earrings even though this made us the last people on the bus. After the Great Wall we drove through some beautiful landscapes to a Jade Factory that just happened to have a restaurant. We had to walk through the shop, which was enormous, to get to the restaurant. We had a traditional Chinese lunch and then we had way too much time to shop here. The items were gorgeous but the prices were high and there was no bargaining. I am not sure anyone purchased. Our afternoon was spent walking the Sacred Way of the Ming Tombs. This avenue is lined with 18 pairs of massive stone statues of elephants, lions, camels, and mythical beast. We got some great pictures and headed back to the hotel with a plan. Tonight 4 of us skipped the “traditional Chinese dinner” and headed across town to the Silk Market. Scot, Sylvia, Gayle and I got a cab with the help of our bellman. We had no idea it was so far away but we got to see a lot of the city in route. When he stopped the cab in this very bustling area we were not sure what we are looking for. He pointed across the street and after we paid him he sped away. It took a minute to realize we had to go under the street to cross but suddenly we saw this 9 story market building. When we entered we realized that this place has everything and almost a floor for each thing (housewares, jewelry. women’s clothing, men’s clothing, silk, etc.). The first hour was spent with Scot, who wears a lot of Tommy Bahama shirts including the one he has on today, attempting to fiend off every little Chinese vendor hollering Tommy Bahama shirts $5. He was very good at dodging them and we found out quickly that Sylvia was the shopper. She could out bargain anyone and get her price. Gayle and I were rightfully impressed. We did some great bargaining and everyone left hours later with their pocketbooks a little or a lot lighter. We were able to get a taxi outside the market and headed back to the hotel. As we were speeding along we were amazed to see Tiananmen Square all lit up. It was lovely and not the picture we have in our minds of this historic square. Back at our hotel we discovered that we are starving and we headed to TGI Fridays which is a block or two from the hotel. American food tasted great and Gayle and I finished our burgers and fries with no problem. Tonight we hit the bed tired but happy.

Today after our usual hearty breakfast we boarded our bus for Tiananmen Square. Located at the center of Beijing City we visited Tiananmen Tower, Monument to the People's Heroes, Great Hall of the People, Mao Zedong Memorial Hall and saw the national flag raising ceremony. Thousands of people come to the Square every day. It was the must place to visit in Beijing City and judging by the number of people here today everyone was visiting. We got some great pictures even though it was a very hazy day. From here we walked toward the Forbidden City. In route we made a potty break and I would not usually mention this except that this was one of the most harrowing experiences ever. We got to the building housing the ladies loo and found a line. Being good little scouts we stood in line patiently but soon realized that everyone else was pushing past us. We started to move forward and the shoving increased until I could hardly breathe. It was hot, smelly, and very close quarters. When I finally make it into the stall the smell was overwhelming and it was a squat toilet. When I emerged from the building I found everyone in our group had similar experiences and are just glad to be out. Next stop is the Forbidden City and there is a lot of renovation being done in preparation for the Olympics. The Forbidden City was the Imperial palace from the mid-Ming Dynasty to the end of the Quing Dynasty. It houses the Palace Museum. For almost five centuries, it served as the home of the Emperor and his household, and the ceremonial and political centre of Chinese government. Built from 1406 to 1420, the complex consists of 980 surviving buildings with 8,707 bays of rooms and covers 720,000 square metres. The palace complex exemplifies traditional Chinese palatial architecture, and has influenced cultural and architectural developments in East Asia and elsewhere. The Forbidden City was declared a World Heritage Site in 1987, and is listed by UNESCO as the largest collection of preserved ancient wooden structures in the world. Since 1924, the Forbidden City has been under the charge of the Palace Museum, whose extensive collection of artwork and artefacts were built upon the imperial collections of the Ming and Qing dynasties. After time to explore the rooms and make lot’s of pictures we journeyed back to our bus through some lovely gardens. We headed to a lovely hotel for a buffet lunch and amuch more civilized potty stop. The afternoon was spent at the Summer Palace. We were blessed with weather that permits us to take the Dragon Boat ride. We did not have as much time as we would have liked to explore but we did get some history and have time to see a few of the main sights. The Summer Palace came into existence in the 13 and 14th century but didn’t begin to look like it does today until the Quing Dynasty. It is most famous or infamaous as the home of the Dowager Empress who was the cruelest ruler in all of Chinese history. She was also vain and we get to see her biggest folly the Marble Barge which to be built nearly bankrupted the country. The Palace survived the cultural revolution when many national treasures were destroyed and was even renovated. Today it was easy to see that this is a beloved place and that most of its daily visitors are the Chinese people who enjoy picnicing and just walking the grounds. We had time to walk the Long Gallery and visit the gift shop. The Long Gallery is a ½ mile covered walkway whose ceiling is covered with paintings from Chinese classic literature, flowers, and scenery. These paintings are retouched every 12 years. After our return trip on the Dragon boat we headed back to our hotel. On the way back we asked Grant if we could see any of the Olympic preparations and he had the bus driver take us by the Olympic stadium. It was most unique and we were able to get some pictures. Late afternoon at the hotel was spent packing, and exploring the surrounding areas. Tonight we had our farewell dinner and a Peking Opera performance. We traveled to a luxury hotel where we were assigned to different rooms for our Peking Duck experience. They made quiet a show of carving the duck at each table and serving it to each of us. It was very tasty and the dinner was delicious ( note to self: no Chinese food for awhile). We had a toast all around and then we went to the lobby for the Opera. The first act was Chinese vocal and it was too tinny for my taste. The rest of the acts were danced and very enjoyable although we did notice that Grant skipped out on this. On the bus ride back Grant gave us instructions about our transfers to the airport and the timing. Gayle and I did not leave until after lunch but Scott and Sylvia, as well as others have to leave around breakfast time. Back in the lobby we said our good-byes and it is always sad when a successful and fun trip ends. We headed up to put the last things in our suitcases so that in the am we could spend some time at one of the local department stores exploring. Ready for bags to go out we hit the sheets.

Today was not a get up and be excited one. We were acutely aware of the long day ahead as we headed to breakfast. We ran into Grant in the lobby and got to say our final good-byes as he was not the one seeing us to the airport. He was wonderful as our fearless leader and we promised to let the company know how much we enjoyed our journey and give him the highest rating. We want our Grant to be Viking’s #1. Gayle and I had a leisurely breakfast and took a walk to the department store. Even this early it was hot and we were sure we would have to re-shower before we left for the airport. We explored the store and found that the handicrafts area that we were most interest in was closed. We trudged back to the hotel and freshened up and it was off to the airport. The check-in process went quickly and smoothly (I asked about extra seats but none were available although the nice clerk did give us a cabin upgrade) and we had some time to walk and explore. We bought some last minute treasures and boarded our plane. Our seats are larger with more leg room but the flight was long and sleep was hard to come by. The food on United was strange and came at the most awkward times. We arrived in Chicago and ate McDonald’s takeout and boarded our next flight. Back in Atlanta we got our bags, caught the hotel shuttle, checked-in to crash and burn with an ambien. We woke up fresh and drove back to the Burg. Our journey that we looked so forward to was now complete. /susan