China and The Yangtze River

We arrived at LAX and met with our tour group. We had arrived the night before and spent the night but most of the others had been traveling already today. We had been called at home by our lovely tour guide Ruth Ann Levin so we already felt like we knew someone. At this point we had no idea how much we all would grow to love her. We boarded the plane at 12:30pm but didn't get our usual request for 2 adjacent aisle seats and the 11 1/2 hour flight to Tokyo will be exhausting. Well, we didn't take off immediately as the 4th engine wouldn't start. We had to sit at the gate an extra hour. Three meals later we arrive in Japan and we have to hustle to make our connection. We made it; hope our luggage did! It is now 7:46pm Sunday night and we are in Beijing with our luggage. Can't wait to get to the hotel, take a bath, and hit the sac! The Kempinski Hotel is terrific! All the amenities and beautiful. There is a mall attached. We have an orientation with Ruth Ann. It's Sunday 4/18 now.

We slept very well; up bright and early. Breakfast was a real treat. Every food imaginable, both Chinese and Western. This am we visited the Imperial Palace and Teananmen Square. The palace in in the Forbidden City. This certainly hasn't been kept up since the last emperor but is still very impressive. We saw Chinese soldiers drilling and we were not impressed. Its colder than we expected here. We had a group photo made and found some local got into our picture! Ha! We have an excellent tour guide named "Jack". Peddlers are everywhere and they don't understand "NO". This is a very busy city! Lunch was at the Friendship Hotel. It was a huge Chinese meal served in large bowls at each table. It was wonderful and typical of the hotel food we would have on the entire trip. This afternoon we visited the Summer Palace of the Dowager Queen, the Marble Barge, and took the Dragon Boat across the lake in the rain, but still saw the sights. On the way back we saw the Pandas (3 adults and twin babies) at the Beijing Zoo. They were so cute. The zoo was rather unkempt. Only tourists were there, no Chinese! Click here to see Forbidden City, Summer Palace, & Other Beijing Pictures

This am we visited a cloisonné factory. The work was all done by hand; very intensive. Huge factory store and we made our share of purchases. We bought a panda vase, a turtle, and a frog for Kim. We then drove through lovely peach orchards in bloom to the Ming Tombs. We walked the Sacred Way and saw the animal and soldier statues 500 years old. They were in remarkable condition. We then went through the Ming Gate, which was a museum of burial artifacts. We climbed the Soul Tower and looked out over the burial mound. We had to fight off peddlers at the kiosk hollering "hell-o hell-o". Lunch was at a Friendship Store and was served on lazy Susans. Food was delicious including sweet and sour fish. We were at the table with Steve and Alice, Mac, and our delightful tour guide Ruth Ann. This afternoon we spent at the Great Wall. The mountains on the way were so very beautiful. The wall is a true wonder of the world! It is much more spectacular and we were overwhelmed by the height of the mountains that it topped. We walked to the highest part and the wind was so cold that we didn't stay long. Hugh went a long way and took a lot of pictures. Click here to see Cloissone Factory Pictures
Click here to see Great Wall Pictures

Up bright and early. Hugh's first hospital visit is this morning. He left at 8am and I read till 9:30. The bus picked us up at 10 and we were off to the Temple of Heaven. Peddlers greeted us and the Temple was lovely; 500 years old and beautiful architecture. The weather is sunny and warmer than previous days. Lunch was at a Chinese hotel and not quite as good as the last 2 days. Company was good: Mac and the Testas. This afternoon we went to the airport. The trip was a treat. Jack, our local guide, entertained us with songs and jokes about Bill Clinton and Monica etc. The airport was congested and the steps to board are many. Very glad to have Ruth Ann to ease us through. The flight was at 1:45pm and the landing was a true bump in the night. We arrived at the Shangri-la Garden Flower Hotel and had a light soup (French onion) dinner and then crashed. Click here to see Temple of Heaven Pictures

This morning up at 6 and breakfast at 7. There was a nice breakfast buffet. We were on the bus and off to the south of the city. Xian is a walled city with a moat. The wall and moat were built in the Ming dynasty. We climbed the wall and looked out over the city. We saw people doing tai chi and dancing (line, swing, fox trot) in the parks around the town. I purchased an egg-shell porcelain bowl at a shop here. We then went to a Friendship Store and saw artisans carving jade and jadeite into beautiful statues etc. We purchased 3 oriental silk paintings and a terra cotta soldier. We had lunch, Chinese of course, and then we left on the bus for the museum of the terra cotta soldiers. Second only to the Great Wall, this is a most fascinating place. The tombs were so large they are divided into 3 large buildings. The ones that have been restored are so many one has a hard time comprehending how they were made so long ago. They think they have uncovered and restored about 1/3 of them so far. Archeologists were busy working in buildings 2 & 3. Hugh had his picture taken getting the autograph of the man who discovered them. We then left for our hotel to get ready for the Tang Dynasty Dinner Theater. The theater was lovely, the food good, but the show was fantastic. The music, the costumes, and the talent were most enjoyable. It was an exciting and exhausting day. We packed and slept hard to prepare for another long day.

Up at 6, breakfast at 7, then on the bus at 8. What a morning! We arrived at Xian airport and it was clean & not crowded. After clearing security we were on the plane and off to Wuhan. We were met by our local guides Ben & Susan. We stopped first at the Yellow Crane Tower, which was built during the Ji Dynasty. It was beautiful but Wuhan was very polluted and visibility was not as good as we had hoped for. Chinese lunch came next, and then the doctors went to Hubei University General Hospital. The rest of us went to the Hubei Music College. This place was very unique. Children from elementary school through university level study dance, vocal, and instrumental music. We talked to some ten-year-old girls who were trying out for a position in one of the classes. They were so animated and wanted their pictures taken. Maureen had a Polaroid camera and she made 2 pictures of them and they were so excited. We then visited some classes and saw two pianists who were spectacular and heard a young man sing opera for us. Everyone at this college is very talented. We have been surprised how friendly the young people and teens have been to us. We then met the group at the hospital. I'm not sure if I have mentioned this earlier, bathrooms in this country are horrendous: even the hospital has squat toilets. The smell in public toilets is so bad you gag. No toilet paper either! We carry our own in our bags. We then visited the Hubei Provincial Museum. We saw artifacts from the Ji Dynasty and they were quite beautiful. There was a performance of chimes made of bronze & marble that were so large they would fill a room. Chinese flutes, Chinese harps, and woodwinds accompanied them. This was truly beautiful! They played Auld Lang Syne for us. We had a leisurely dinner and then boarded our ship for our Yangtze River cruise. Click here to see Xian and Wuhan Pictures
Click here to see Hubei Pictures

We sailed all night up the river. Hugh watched for the endangered white dolphin but never saw one. We sailed into Lake Dongting and visited the Yueyang Tower built as a watchtower for the Emperor to oversee his fleet 1,000 years ago. It contained a poem by Chairman Mao painted on the wall. It was overcast and rainy but much warmer than Bejing. That evening we attended the captain's welcome aboard cocktail party. We had mahjong lessons and dumpling wrapping lessons. There was a lecture on the Yangtze River given by cruise director Rachel Core. We were especially interested in visiting China at this time because of the Three Gorges Project. This is the biggest construction project mankind has ever attempted and is scheduled to take 18 years to complete. The Yangtze has killed as many as 300,000 people in one year in its flooding. It flows so fast that commerce is difficult at times and the world's largest city ChongQing is on its upper banks. Because of the Three Gorges, it will be possible to raise the river many hundreds of feet, make use of rugged, mountainous terrain never used before, and get clean hydroelectric power in place of the high-sulfur coal present source. Tens of millions of people are being relocated and we see whole cities being built on the mountain tops high above the present ones. The dam has been very controversial as you know. We wanted to see the scenery before it disappears below the surface forever. Click here to see Yangtze River Pictures
Click here to see Three Gorges Pictures

We sailed to the Three Gorges Dam site and left the boat to view the dam construction. Before this we went through the lock at Gezhouba Dam below the Three Gorges. We sailed through the Xiling Gorge for several hours. The Three Gorges Dam is being built in the middle of this gorge. Then we went through the Wu Gorge and docked at Wushan for the night.

Six am breakfast then off the boat for a real adventure of a lifetime. We walked up the bank of the river into Wushan. This definitely was a working city and the local color was fascinating. We rode tiny buses but would have preferred to walk. School children & workers were picking up breakfast along their walks and the unidentifiable foods looked and smelled delicious. This was a most interesting trip; up, down, curves, and ledges. Everyone was white-knuckled when we got to the sampans for a tour of the Lesser Three Gorges. The scenery was breathtaking and the weather was hazy and cool. This was a difficult trip for the sampans as the river flowed so rapidly and there were rapids. We had to get off and walk past one rapid and the sampans barely made it. A most pleasant trip. There were peddlers and beggars at some points and they had long bamboo poles with nets on the end that they stuck in the windows for money. There was one persistent boy who ran down the rocky shore after us. Everyone ended up giving him something for his effort. We gathered beautiful colorful smooth stones on the riverbank. What a shame that the entire gorges, shoreline, and even the town will be under water in 5 years! The entire trip took about six hours and then we were back on the Victoria Princess for a late lunch. The dining was first class and the company was great! A short siesta, then up for Chinese lessons and we sailed past White King City. I played mahjong with Carol, Joe and Vicki. We had a great time. This is a fun Chinese game that the kids would enjoy; very much like rummy using tiles. The Chinese play it very fast & competitively. We had the usual Chinese dinner with a twist; spaghetti & garlic bread. The Chinese invented spaghetti! This evening was the crew talent show with participation from the passengers. Roland, from our group sang and it was quite lovely. There is a Norweigian couple who have won everyones' hearts. His name is Bruce and he tells the greatest jokes. We had drinks and then off to bed. Click here to see Wushan and the Lesser Three Gorges Pictures

Today dawned rainy and cold! I have a terrible cold, sore throat, and fever. We had a late breakfast and a talk about investments and real estate by members of our group; very informative. The doctors had been in lectures each day, but today they included us. The day was spent touring the "ghost city" of Fengdu. I elected to stay on board dry and warm. Hugh went on the tour. The town was decorated for a festival and they would have liked to walk around but this is not allowed. The group traveled up a chair lift to the temples of Hell and Judgment. The talk was not very interesting to anyone except Mac who had spent a lot of time in the orient and had already cultivated an appreciation for temples. They saw devils, spirits, and ghosts. Sad that the whole large city will be under water and the temple will be a little island on the lake. Everyone was glad to be back on the boat for the rest of the day. A siesta was perfect for me. Hugh attended the farewell banquet, which was just more Chinese food. I rested and had a good evening.

Today is still cloudy with drizzle but the temp was not bad. This morning we docked in Chongqing, which will be toward the top of the lake. This is now the largest city in the world at over thirty million. In actuality, the powers-that-be declared the whole area a special district in anticipation of the huge influence of the lake. The district and the city were merged to make such a large city. Our local guide met us and we went on a bus tour. Hugh met some soldiers and photos were taken. The Chinese carry cameras and also love to have their pictures taken. They are very much taken with anything American. We saw American flags and emblems everywhere, especially on clothes. The market was our favorite site here. It is huge and proves Marco Polo right when he said "the Chinese eat everything on the table but it's legs". They sell beef, pork, chicken, frogs, fish, rats, live ducklings for the famous Peking Duck, and every kind of vegetable imaginable. The people are friendly and very orderly. Everyone local seems to enjoy shopping not only for the food but for the social hour it gives him or her. We also visited a pharmacy and the museum at Gen Stillwell's headquarters in WWII. After the market we have a nice Chinese lunch and then it's off to the airport for our flight to Guilin. We arrive late afternoon and then off to our hotel. The Sheraton Guilin is very nice and we have a western dinner in the coffee shop. Hugh went cormorant fishing with locals while I rested. The cormorants are birds imprinted to the local fisherman and fish for him. We go to bed early after a long day. Click here to see Pictures Chongqing Pictures

Today is warm and only partly cloudy. We had an early wake-up call and had breakfast and walked out onto the sidewalk along the river to see the people doing tai chi and ballroom dancing. How pleasant! We boarded our boat with our guide Li. It was a 1 1/2 hour drive to the Li River (also known as the Lijiang River). The boat is lovely and we are assigned tables on the second level. We have a great view from our seats although we spent a great deal of time standing at the rail on top. The scenery is so different and truly magnificent. Sharp pointed limestone peaks, some shrouded in haze with people farming with water buffalo and oxen. They served a typical Chinese luncheon and we made lots of pictures. When we docked we shopped from street vendors. The bathrooms were so bad on the boat and this town that I understand why children use the streets without shame! We then went to the Reed Flute Cave, which was very nice! The Chinese are masters at seeing designs in rocks and by this point in our trip we were able to see them too. There was a football-field sized cavern at the end of the cave with a lake and formations of limestone that made a crystal city. It was lovely and we all enjoyed it. When we arrived back at Guilin we had a Chinese dinner and then walked about the city on the river walk. Click here to see Pictures Guilin & Li River Pictures
Click here to see Reed Flute Cave Pictures

Up early for breakfast, bags out by 7, and then off to the airport one more time. Our flight to Shanghai was uneventful and we had spaghetti for lunch on the plane. The approach to Shanghai showed as a huge modern city with an extensive highway system. We were surprised to be met by our guide David at the gate. His English is very good and he has a very western sense of humor. Our first stop of the afternoon was the Jade Buddha Temple. This site was very crowded, too much incense, and no photos allowed of the Buddhas. We were very glad this was a short stop. Next we visited the Children's Palace where we saw the most talented of Shanghai's children. We saw boys 10-12 years old performing Chinese opera, which is danced. We saw children typing 300 Chinese characters a minute, accordion players, pianists, calligraphers, artists, ballroom dancers, etc. All were 12 or under. These children are the elite and must be very dedicated to meet the standards of the school. This is not free education and parents foot the bill! The children seem to enjoy the work. After the Children's Palace we went to the Yu Yuan Gardens. Then we rushed back to the Sofitel Hotel for a quick bite and board the bus for the Acrobatic Troup of Shanghai show. We traveled across this beautiful city and were amazed at the sites. The show was terrific and then back to the hotel. Hugh & I walked around town a little. The main street along the harbor is the famous Bund and is breathtaking at night! We especially liked this hotel because of its convenient location on Nan Jing Road and proximity to shopping and the Bund. Then to bed.

Up at 7, breakfast at 8, and a beautiful walk to the Friendship Store. These are stores where the government warranties the products and showcases Chinese products. We loved them in almost every city we visited. Here was the best one though. Hugh led our group as we had explored the area already. Today is Labor Day here and we were surprised at the number of people on the street and their festive mood. An extra 2 million visitors were expected to the city today. We shopped for a while and purchased a beaded silk bag, two jaded lipstick cases, a silk evening pouch, and a tea set for Lori. We met David, our guide, for a walk on the Bund. It was very crowded and our fair-haired group was a major point of interest as usual. We were asked to pose for pictures with teenagers we met who wanted to practice their English. We met soldiers and sailors who wanted to pose with us and shared email addresses. We have email addresses of Chinese Navy ships! The sailor uniforms were unusually handsome but the military doesn't have standardized shoes so a group of soldiers or sailors has as many different types of shoes on, sort of odd. It was a real surprise to us how friendly the people were throughout China and how well English was spoken wherever we went. After our walk we had a Mongolian BBQ. Great! We then shopped at some little shops and bought some fresh water pearls for Lori. Their shape is unique and the luster is good. We then went to the new Shanghai Museum. It was beautiful and their display of porcelains was terrific. We spent a while there and then we were back to the hotel to dress for dinner. We were told to wear something we bought in China and we had a variety of tee shirts, ties, scarves, and beads. We had a nice dinner and made group pictures and planned another trip (to India & Nepal?) with our beloved travel guide Ruth Ann. We saw a Chinese wedding reception (the bride wears red). Everyone agreed this was a terrific group who had bonded well. Everyone seemed to be accomplished travellers and were always on time. Most started off travelling light but some of us bought enough to have to pick up extra suitcases in the Friendship store. On our way back to the hotel we were struck in a huge traffic jam near the Bund. The sites were terrific but there was no doubt that the extra two million people had arrived for the holiday. It was remarkable to see so many dark heads bustling along the sidewalks and streets. Cars, cabs, and buses were six-across although there were only four lanes! It was amazing the disorganization and how they handled it. It is against the law to honk in traffic. People really exhibit exceptionally good manners and we saw only one accident in our entire journey around China. Tonight we saw a taxi that had tangled fenders with a bus. Very little damage and no one was hurt. The funny thing was that instead of waiting on the police, everyone on the bus, including the driver, got off the bus and was walking down the highway. Soon the police came and started running after them. It was hilarious. Six of us stopped at another hotel on the Bund so that we could go to their 10th floor rooftop garden and make pictures. It was definitely worth it as I'm sure our pictures will show. Very few cities, if any, are as beautiful at night! Then it was off to bed.

Up at 6, bags out at 6:45, breakfast, and off to the airport for the last time. We are in line for a long time but soon we are Tokyo bound. After a three-hour flight we have a two-hour layover in Toyo. The airport is extremely modern and clean. No shopping for us, the exchange rate is prohibitive. We walk and talk and then board the plane for Los Angeles, 10 hours away. We had lunch between Shanghai and Tokyo and now we are having dinner and drinks. Before we land they promised us breakfast. Then our day will start over again as we cross the International Date Line. I have no idea how many meals we will have before we reach Spartanburg. I have an aisle seat, as does Hugh so we are as comfortable as we can get. They have two movies on this flight on United, At First Sight, and Step Mom. Have to see if I can stay awake for them, as I've seen both. Oh well, the movies were different and I finally got to see Patch Adams. At LAX good-byes were sad. What great travelers we all were. Everyone was adventurous and always on time! The flight to Spartanburg found Hugh and I sound asleep. Home at last, safe and sound. A great trip with some fantastic people! Can't wait to go to India and Nepal next February with Ruth Ann and our newfound friends through AIMS.
/susan