Brazil & the
Amazon

Today was rainy and cold in South Carolina. We went to church and finished the last few things we had to do before we left and were so bored that we drove to Charlotte around 3 pm for our 10 pm flight. We walked around the mall and had a great leisurely dinner at Harper's. We arrived at the airport on time and Hugh dropped me and the bags off and went to park. I decided to check in and US Air allowed me to check us both in and our 2 bags. All Hugh had to do was show his passport and we were off. Security was slow as usual. I am amazed at how much stuff people carry on a plane. It took the lady in front of us 3 tries before she cleared everything. My little bag and flip flops went through quickly as did Hugh's bags. I made my final calls and read while Hugh worked on the computer until time to board. There were only 80 people on our 767 so we each had 3 seats. We were asleep almost as soon as we took off and slept until they woke us for breakfast- a very easy 11 hour flight.

The view of Rio as we approach was spectacular and we were soon on the ground. Our trip through customs was easy, luggage arrived but we had to wait a bit on our driver. Once our luggage was stored we were off to the city. It was Monday morning and there was quite a bit of traffic. Drivers here are not as aggressive as Argentina but still change lanes with abandon. We arrived at our hotel (Astoria Palace) before 11 and were able to check in to our room immediately. Nice room overlooking Copacabana beach. We took some time to unpack, store safe items, and change into warm weather clothing before heading off to explore and have lunch. We walked toward Leme and Sugarloaf. We had to walk on the hotel side of the street as it was too hot in the sun on the beach side. Views were terrific and it felt good to exercise. We stopped at Mape for lunch and we had Brazilian pizza- crust paper thin, fresh tomatoes and casa fresco. It was delicious and we lingered for a while at our outside table. We returned to the hotel to relax, I read and Hugh napped until the sun dropped a bit. It was a big transition from rainy and cold to 90 and sunny. Around 3 we showered and walked toward the Copacabana Fort. We explored the areas where people live and shop and found it to be very European. On our way back in broad daylight with many people around, a young boy of about 12 rode by on his bike and snatched my cross necklace from my neck. I was so shocked that I could do nothing but stand and stare. Hugh said to let it go but I felt so hurt and violated that I had to have a little cry. The necklace was very sentimental and had been with me all over the world. We went back to the hotel to freshen up; the heat drains those of us not used to it. Later in the evening we emailed family and friends, wrote in my journal, and went out to a local Taverna for dinner. I had mustard glazed salmon and saffron rice-it was delicious. Hugh had filet with Roquefort and we lingered over dinner (eaten outside) before heading back along the beach.

Plans were to be up early but we were more tired than expected. We made it to breakfast at 8:48 and were already later than we had planned (wanted to be at Sugar Loaf by 8:30). We had a great breakfast and found our bus stop. It was easier than expected to take the bus to different places. If we had questions there were lots of friendly people willing to help. Buses are nice and this one was air conditioned. We arrived at the cable car entrance and took the car up to the first level. The view was 3 times as good as we expected and we could orient ourselves well. We made pictures from all sides and the patio areas were comfortable. We watch a very funny monkey cleaning up scraps. We were surprised to find an H. Stern Jeweler on top of the mountain but there it was with a gift shop and a shoe store. There were the cutest elementary school kids on a field trip and most of the boys carried Superman backpacks. From there we took the next cable car to the 2nd level. The view again was incredible. After exhausting the picture taking opportunities, we took both cars back down. From the Acucar we walked to Velhome beach, around the Naval base, and over to Botofogo beach and marina area. There was a bridge across an inlet and kids were jumping off and swimming on their way home from school (in their blue jeans). We walked through some lovely neighborhoods and caught the bus to Ipanema. In Ipanema we stayed on some shady streets, had a late lunch, and wandered through a shopping mall. We then made our way to the beach and walked as we watched exercisers, soccer games, kite surfers, and just people sunning their buns (literally, bathing suits are very small here; Dental floss bikinis). When the heat got to us we caught the bus back to Copa and rested and cooled off. After a cool shower we headed down the beach stopping to watch all the afternoon sports. The newest to us was foot volley. This game is like volley ball but you kick or head the ball instead of spiking with your hands. It is a fast moving, very popular game. There are schools on the beach where you can get one on one lessons. Beach exercise stations are also extremely popular especially with the guys. Some of them have trouble walking they are so busy pumping up so much. We had a lovely dinner at La Maison and then walked slowly back along the beach. We checked out the 14th floor deck and enjoyed the view. Then off to check email, write in journal, and read. Our goal is to be up early and get the bus to Corcovado to see Christ the Redeemer and then check out the artsy neighborhood called St. Therese. Good Night!!!

We actually got up and out early but it was already 31 degrees C and sunny. After breakfast we walked to our bus stop and caught the 583 to Corcovado. It was amazing almost everyone on the public bus got off at the same stop. We were at the entrance to the cog railway to the top and waiting very quickly. The tickets are by time and we had 40 minutes to kill. We talked to some nice ladies from Seattle (some of the first English speakers we have found). They were with a tour group from a Costa Cruise. On the trip up the railway we sat near an English speaking guide and got some rainforest info. The Corcovado is in the midst of the Tijuca National park, the world's only urban rainforest. Vegetation was thick but the view as we went up was great and then we topped the trees and it was spectacular. We got off the rail car and climbed the steps to the top. We could see every part of Rio, heat made it hazy but it was still incredible. The park guide said that it would be a year before the restoration would be complete and the scaffolding taken down. It is surprising the number of monuments we have seen under restoration. This was an incredible morning and we caught our railcar down and enjoyed the view. We had a little trouble figuring out the stopping place for the bus but we were soon on our way. The heat and humidity stopped our efforts to go to St. Therese. The bus situation here is unique in that it is the major means of transportation for everyone; school kids, workers, tours, and yes tourist. The buses are frequent and clean but vary in price from 2.35 reis to 2.5 reis. We can't figure out which is which. We were soon back to the hotel and had time to clean up before heading out for a very late lunch. We walked the shady street of Copa and soon found a per kilo restaurant. This is a Brazilian style that is a bit like a buffet but the meats are cooked to order and you pay by the weight of your plate. Keeps tabs on how much you take and also cuts way, way, down on waste. We ate slowly and enjoyed the variety. We then strolled around the area staying out of the sun until we made our way back to the hotel. We downloaded video, pictures, read, watched the news, answered email, and relaxed. Around 7:30 we started preparation for dinner. We both agreed we would like to go back to the Taverna where we ate Monday night. We had a delightful evening, view of the beach, eating outside, and some of the best food we have ever eaten!! Late dinners are the Carioca way so this may be my Good night!

Up early, bathing suits on and out on Copacabana beach by 7:30am. It was very busy with lots of runner, walkers, and the avid flex and stretch crowd. We walked up the beach toward the fort, sat on my kanga (wrap) and by 8:30 we were back at the hotel, showering, packing and having breakfast. We walked around the living area of Copa and saw the lifestyle of the people. This is a very crowded area. We stopped and bought some Havaianas flip flops for the summer. At noon we checked emails and checked out of our room. That was a mix-up on a car to the port but we lucked out and shared a nice car with a couple from England who were also having difficulties. It was great, new friends and ½ price ride. Check-in with Holland-America was painless and before we knew it we were in the dining room having a late lunch with our new friends Chris & Barry. During lunch they announced that our cabins were ready and soon our luggage arrived. We unpacked, pressed our things, and moved in nicely. We went to the Spa intro and I was disappointed that men won almost all the big door prizes. We of course had to do the life boat drill and then up to the top deck for the sail away. There was music, a BBQ and the opportunity to get some pictures of the scenic Rio harbor and coast line. Back in the room we changed for dinner and had a long leisurely dinner with 2 other couples. The show was at 9:30 and was a preview of what is to come. I think we are in for a treat as the 5 main performers are all lead actors from Broadway. Off to bed. We get to sleep in tomorrow, it's a sea day!

We woke up this morning with sunshine in our window at our usual time of 7:45; not very late. We dressed in our exercise clothes and headed to breakfast. We are trying very hard to eat sensibly but it is hard with omelet's, French toast, eggs Benedict, etc at every turn. After breakfast we went to the promenade deck and walked laps although it was very windy, then off to the gym for their instruments of torture; treadmill-fast mile, then a circuit of all the machines. It felt very good to really exercise. After a cool down shower we had a salad lunch topped off with a scoop of coconut ice cream in a waffle cone; ok, this was a major slip up but oh so good! We went up to the Crow's Nest and finished our ice cream while watching a Wii tennis tournament. These people were serious. I then took my iPod and journal on deck and enjoyed the view while Hugh processed pictures from Rio. We napped while listening to the shore excursion lecture (we were in our room). We took another brisk walk around the top deck before showering and dressing (formal) for dinner. We were seated with a couple from Spain and a couple from California. We had a long, lively dinner and then it was time to head to the show, a Broadway Revue. We just happened to sit next to the parents of one of the performers. She was a lead in Les Mis, did the traveling company, and is an incredible singer. The show was wonderful and all 5 of the singers have their own style. We walked around the ship a bit before we headed to the stateroom and prepared for the next day, Ilheus, our first adventure.

Up early, dressed in bathing suit and quick dry clothes, and off we went to breakfast. Soon we were in the Theater at Sea waiting for our tour. It was warm already but our bus was air conditioned and our guide Jamario was quite entertaining. We rode around the port area which is manmade and industrial. It took 250,000 shiploads of rock to build this port. We arrived in the town square and walked to see a statue of the most important lawyer in the town's history. The story goes; there was a man that everyone called Ox. He hated this name and asked them repeatedly not to call him that. One night he stopped in a bar and a friend came in and said Hey Ox. The man said please do not use this nickname. The friend said, “ok, Ox.' Again he was asked not to say that and as he left he said, “Bye, Ox.” As he was going the man he called Ox shot him twice. Barrios was the lawyer hired to defend him. At the trial, Barrios in his opening statement spoke for 20 minutes and used the term Judge in every sentence. Finally the judge stopped him and said “Judge is not my name it is my occupation. Quit calling me that and defend your client.” Barrios said, “After 20 minutes you are this upset about my calling you judge, imagine how my client feels about being called Ox his whole life.” The verdict was NOT Guilty. Fact or fiction, it was an entertaining story. We then visited a palacio built by a cacao grower. This home was so grand that at the opening all the dignitaries of the time came. It had a retractable roof where you dine under the stars. Our next stop was the oldest church in Brazil, St. Jorge's est. 1566. From there we went to the Cathedral of San Sebastiao which took over 40 years to build. There are 2 tombs inside, the man who started it and the man who completed it. This is an extremely lovely church. We walked passed the Bar Vesuvio which is and has always been a popular meeting place. They still serve the dish immortalized in Jorge Amado's Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon. From the Bar we walked to the Jorge Amado House of Culture where Amado lived from ages 2-18. He is Brazils most celebrated writer and his house is decorated in lavish materials such as Carrera marble and silks. The Jacaranda wood in the flooring is quite beautiful. From the house we boarded the bus for our drive to Tijupe Falls, forty minutes away. The ride took us through some small villages and into the rain forest. When we arrived, we hiked a dirt trail to an area with a restaurant, bar, and the waterfalls. At first no one would get in so I took the plunge. The water was cool and lovely. Very soon at least half the tour was splashing about. We enjoyed this very much and it was very refreshing on a day in the high 80's and humid. We hiked back in our swimsuits in hope that we would dry off before reboarding the bus for our drive back. Our next stop was a much anticipated one, the Chocolate factory. They had great samples for us and it was a hard decision when we decided to make a purchase. Their dark chocolate was wonderful but the white chocolate was the best I have ever had. Hugh bought some of each and we look forward to snacks after lunch or dinner (we are on a cruise, you know there is no food to be had)! Back on the ship we quickly head for a late lunch. We ate sensibly and then ruined it all by having a waffle cone of ice cream as we dutifully walked around the deck. I wrote in my journal and Hugh sorted pictures until time for the sail away party. We went to the gym at 5 for a good workout. We are determined to go home healthy and not overweight. Tonight we opted for the late dinner and we sat with a lovely couple who were both very accomplished and also world travelers. At 10 the 4 of us made a quick dash to the theater for the late show. It was a harpist from Montevideo, Uruguay who played Latin music on the unusual Para guan Harp. It was incredible and I especially like the flutist in the show band who played on several songs. Late night, early morning, Good Night!

Clock went off early but we did not get up right away. We barely made breakfast and our tour by 8:30. When we got on the bus we were introduced to our driver Domingo and our guide Roberto. Today we toured Salvador (Bahia), Brazil. The first thing we saw was the Palacio do Rio Branco which was one the governor's palace. It is now the department of tourism. We left the bus and took the elevator to the Cidade Alta (upper city). This renovated area is a UNESCO World Heritage site. As we walked the cobblestone streets we heard the music and celebration of Palm Sunday throughout the city. People passed by with palm branches on their way to the single combined mass that was held outside in the large square. Our first stop was the 17th century Jesuit Basilica, decorated with gold and whimsical Portuguese hand-painted Azulejo tiles. This is the largest seminary outside Rome and is one of Brazil's oldest intact structures. We were then given a break and time to wander the square. One person on our tour had her camera ripped from her hand. The thief was very bold and acted right in the middle of our tour group. We then walked to the other end of the square to the Sao Francisco Church. The exterior was not great but the inside was lovely and had a beautiful gallery. At this point we were able to wander on our own up and down the hilly street and check the artisan shops and have something to drink. We went back to our bus and started down the Praca Anchieta which is lined with old colonial homes. We traveled through what was described as the wealthy section with high rises and private homes overlooking the sea. We ended our tour at the city market where we had a little time to shop. We had strange weather, sun, rain, sun, pouring rain, and more bright sunshine. It was warm and humid as we headed back to the ship. Back on the ship we cleaned up for a light late lunch and then walked around for a bit. Hugh rested, I wrote in my journal, and we both went for a stretch class followed by a good workout. We then settled back to watch Duke beat Baylor in the NCAA tournament. It was after 7 before we started our nightly ritual of getting ready for dinner. It was well after 8 before we hit the dining room as the game ran long. We were seated with some strange complaining people and I was especially glad when dessert arrived and we could leave our Argentine Diva behind. The show tonight was a comedian named Tom Sutton and he was hilarious. Off to bed very late; tomorrow breakfast in bed!!!

Breakfast in bed, oh how decadent. We read our daily paper, drank coffee, and enjoyed our treat. Once up and dressed, I went to the culinary program and Hugh went to the speaker series. We met later for a lecture by a Panamanian diplomat. She graduated from Georgia and worked all over but her longest tenure was as the director of the Panama Canal. She was a horrible speaker, reading everything, but had wonderful slides and information. After lunch Hugh sorted pictures and I attended a make-up lecture at the spa. I also attended a jewelry demo on how to tell real amber from fake-yahoo. I sat on deck and read until Hugh joined me for our afternoon walk. We then headed to the gym for our stretch class. It was another formal night so we dressed and went to a late dinner. We were seated with 2 lovely couples and dinner stretched until time for the late show. It was supposed to be a pianist but the stomach bug had him under the weather. Extra precautions have been taken all over the ship to prevent any spread. We enjoyed an impromptu variety show by all the performers from the ship and it was terrific. Hard to believe they only had 2 hours to get it together. Late night, early a.m., good night!

Up early and ready for breakfast. Today is our city tour of Maceio and we are ready to see the highlights. Our guide was Gabriel and he was a jokester. Our first stop was Igreja Bom Jesus Das Martirios Cathedral which was across the street from Martyr Square. It is famous for its handmade blue and white ceramics. It was very beautiful and calming. We walked around the interior and then photographed the outside. The sun is very bright and I was having trouble with the lighting. We then drove to an overlook where there was a small market and we got cokes and made a lot of pictures. We could see our ship and we had a great view of the city skyline. Most Brazilians think of Maceio for the Alagouas beaches. The bay is at the mouth of the Ganga River. This beach area is the newest and the richest. The lookout area was middle class, the beach the upper class, and we then traveled to the south side and Centro where we found the poorest areas. We made a stop in Centro to see the Government Square and the old governor's palace which was used until 2006 as the official government building. On our way to our next stop Gabriel told us that this area is famous for its intricate lace designs. We made a stop at a very large handicraft market at the edge of the sea. The lace was incredible, intricate and colorful but unfortunately not items that would be useful to me. No purchases today. We got back to the ship and had a late lunch, rested from the heat, and read. Later I went to stretch class and Hugh joined me for a 2 mile walk along the promenade deck. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset as we walked. We watched the orange full moon rise in an ink black sky, WOW! We showered, ate at the buffet and went to the juggling show which was very nice but freezing in the show room. At last warm in my cabin I read and journaled while Hugh sorted pictures.

We got up early for breakfast as our tour today was 9 hours. We were supposed to leave at 8:15. We made it to our tour departure but the immigration people have not arrived to clear the ship. We waited until the announcement came over the speakers that our ship was not cleared because we have people on board with the gastrointestinal bug, some in isolation and some out already. The Brazilian health authorities are notorious for being a pain. They wanted to interview everyone that was sick and this took forever although it was only 16 people. We left the tour area and enjoyed the ships amenities. We decided to sit on deck in the sun as the tour area had been cold. It was 11: 25 and I expected our tour to be cancelled as it was so long. Oh well, HAL has no control over Brazilian authorities. At 11:40 we ate a light lunch hoping that we would be off soon. On our way to the cabin we ran into our tour guide Melissa and she told us the bad news, no tour today (full refund). We put on bathing suits and exercise clothes and headed our separate ways. I sat by the pool for a while and Hugh shot baskets. We both ended at the gym. We worked out and then decided to rest a bit. The ship was finally cleared but we stayed on board to protest. Why spend any money or time in an unfriendly port; also just another very large city! We watched the end of Julie and Julia and headed out for our afternoon walk. As the sun sank lower we grabbed cameras and went up top to photo the city skyline. We decided on an early dinner, showered and dressed. We were seated with 3 lovely couples and had a great time. They too had stayed on board in protest! We all went to the show which featured Shirley Dominguez and Tom Sutton in an encore performance. It was great and on our way around the ship we found an empty washer and decided on some late night laundry. Wash all done and good night!

MAN I WISH THIS CRUISE WAS OVER!! April Fools!!
Up early as planned for the Awesome Abs class. What is the chance this will be effective with so much food around? Arrived at the Spa and the class had changed, content and location. Too early in the morning for me to make changes. In the show theater I did a rigorous circuit class and Hugh did weights in the gym. Hugh joined me for the stretching class and it felt good. After that it was off to breakfast and my favorite Spanish omelets. Hugh splurged with crab eggs Benedict. We then walked our mile and we were ready to start our day. Hugh read and I checked emails and then headed for the kitchen tour. The tour was fascinating; the kitchen was calm and each station organized. There was lunch prep underway and you would never know that they were preparing 7000 meals a day. There are separate kitchen areas for the 3 main restaurants and separate passage ways for entering and exiting. The executive chef is Austrian and very calm and organized. The kitchen staff says that he never loses his cool. I will be in one of his classes later in the day. I am surprised at the detail to cleanliness they have. After the tour I walked around looking at the art and spent a little time with Hugh before I headed to the culinary center for my strudel making lesson. The executive chef Peter Kofler did this class and boy was he an expert and also quite funny. We could see why his staff had commented on his easy manner, he was the same way in class, laughing, talking but still calmly instructing. He made the strudel dough from scratch-no puff pastry on this ship) and was specific about all his ingredients including his recommending Meyers dark rum. The finished strudel was at least 3 feet long but he said to cut it into usable sizes, seal the ends, and freeze for up to 6 mos. Definitely something I want to try at home. After class we all rushed to the Lido for lunch because they were serving hot apple strudel. Hugh and I had a great lunch and I went to cake decorating class and Hugh went to read retirement books. At 2 we met for the naturalist, David Saunders lecture. This Englishman is a renowned conservationist and his talks are enlightening, funny, and filled with his energy. This talk was on all the birds, mammals, insects, snakes, etc. that we will be seeing in the Amazon rain forest. He had people excited about beetles the size of your hands and black vultures and poison dart frogs. Great lecture with excellent slides from his trips. After the lecture we read and changed into exercise clothes. We went to our class, did weights and walked a mile (we may get fat but we will be muscular).We dressed formally and went for an early dinner. We were seated with 3 lively couples, 2 from CA and one from FL. We all enjoyed lobster thermidor and talking. We were very late for the show. Turned out the show was not of much interest, classical Spanish guitar and all the songs sounded like the one before. We went on an Art walk and retired to our cabin to look over future cruise books. Before we knew it 11 pm rolled around, good night!

Up at 6:30, dressed and off to the Spa. Hugh and I both did the awesome abs and stretching classes. That was quite a way to wake up and it feels so good to be finished. Breakfast was in the Lido as we docked 1 ½ hours late. Our ship was on time but the Brazilian authorities would not clear the dock space or send us our pilot until 8 am instead of 6:30. Now we are told that the health authorities will board but not until 10. Our first tours were scheduled for 7:45. This is very frustrating to everyone but especially hard on the cruise line. They have no control but the cranky passengers are still their responsibility. We walked around the ship and made pictures of the city and took our time getting ready for the day. I had planned on a blogging computer course but was told that it was an ongoing class and I had missed too many, who knew? My second choice was a class on entertaining and appetizers. Hugh went to edit pictures until lunch. I can't figure why party planning and appetizers don't interest him. Culinary Arts Center was freezing as usual-glad I remembered my sweater. The crowd was larger than expected as the health authorities had not yet cleared the ship. Glad people are more flexible today although the complaint line at the front desk looked long. Jenn the party planner was our chef and she demonstrated some great appetizers. They were quick and easy with available ingredients. The recipes included info on numbers per person which is very helpful. I have thoroughly enjoyed all the culinary classes. I went to the cabin to wait for Hugh and lunch (seems I live for the next meal). Today we lunch in the main dining room and it was lovely. Finally the ship was cleared and we decided to walk around the port area. No going into town for us after the shabby way they have treated us. I certainly hope this doesn't continue at our next ports. It was hot and humid but with a slight breeze. There wasn't much to see and after repeated warning from taxi drivers and police to go back, we did. We walked on deck, sat by the pool, rested with our iPods, and then headed for our afternoon exercise class. We then joined the sail away on Lido deck and had our rum punch complements of Captain PJ. We enjoyed the music and talking to everyone. We stayed until time to shower and head to dinner. Dinner was great and tonight there is no show, just a movie. We walked, shopped, aka looked, and then off to bed.

Up early and off to the abs class and then stretching. This is a good recipe for a great day. Breakfast was a small Spanish omelet and an English muffin. Now we are ready for the day. Today was a lazy day onboard ship. After our showers, we checked emails and I went to a cooking class. One of the Indonesian chefs made chicken adobo and it was delicious. It got everyone in class ready for lunch. From there it was up to the Spa for a fat-burning seminar. It was informative but of course it involved buying some treatments they were selling. Next I went to the pool to write in my journal and soak up some sun. I met Hugh for lunch and he had processed a lot pictures this morning. We went to a seminar on ports of call and then to the nature series. We napped and listened to iPods and then went out for our afternoon walk. We went for an early dinner because of the basketball game and just finished in time to get to our cabin, jammies on, and turn on the TV. It was a late game but Duke prevailed. Night, Night!

HAPPY EASTER
Today we got up at 6 am for our sunrise Easter service. This was very lovely complete with my favorite Easter music, great sermon, and communion. The pianist from the ships orchestra played for us and a wonderful Lutheran minister officiated. We then went to our abs class and stretching (with all this stretching will I get taller?). We went to breakfast and I went to the sports deck to photo our arrival into Belem. Hugh went to process pictures and then joined me for our tour. While waiting to board our tender, Hugh ran up and ate pizza and came back with ice cream cones for both of us. We were just finishing the ice cream as we made our way to the gangway. The ride to the landing at Icoaracy Village was short but we have to wait in line to disembark. The dock is extremely busy, families going on picnics, to the beach, etc. We walk a bit to board the bus and our guide explains about life in Belem for the masses. The homes are colorful but there is poverty everywhere. When we arrived at the boat we had to climb over another boat to get on board. We were lucky our boat was small and had some covered area. This was our first excursion into the jungle and we were both excited. Our trip on the river was calm and everyone was amazed at how large even the tributaries are. We got to see a lot of local river life and everyone wanted to get our attention and waved vigorously. The sun was shining brightly and we were jockeying for space under the cover. The stilted homes were far apart and we saw one church at rivers edge. When we reached the small dock were we were to start our trek into the rainforest, it was crowded with locals and family-type restaurants. We walked up through the crowd and came to a clearing with an elementary school. From there we went through a small village of only 3 homes. There were monkeys in the trees, chickens on the ground, and all sorts of other feathered friends about. We then descended into the darker part of the jungle and even though the sun was shining when we entered I had to have my flash on for pictures as we went deeper. We were introduced to the Brazil nut and the cacao tree by our guide. He was anxious for us to feel and taste all sorts of nuts and berries. We saw more monkeys playing in the trees over our heads. We saw a kapok tree that was amazingly large with a root system that went forever. We also saw Bird of Paradise growing wild. The ant hills were 3-4feet high and termite mounds that were ever larger. We saw a 67 year old man who climbed the Acai Palms to harvest the berries. He climbed one for us and proceeded to go from tree to tree. He had a palm frond rope circle around his feet for grip. He did all this while his pet tarantella crawled on his back. We climbed over charcoal pits and drying mounds. The vegetation was so thick we had to keep up with our guide so that we would not be lost. Everything was damp and the ground was most slippery in some areas. We saw tall skinny palms which garner hearts of palm which they export. We also were shown the many uses of the Acai palm. They use the berries for food and drink, the stalks for brooms, and the fronds for roping. When we arrived back at the little dock we saw lots of families coming to the restaurant wearing their Sunday clothes. We even saw a cute little girl with a live white Easter bunny. The river is busy and many boats carrying large groups are leaving and there are others waiting to dock. On our way back to the bus we travelled some narrow canals and got to see families swimming, fishing, or eating at rivers edge. We again had to wait in a queue to dock. Back on the bus everyone was tired and the bus was quiet and we stopped at a red light. When the light changed and the bus started up it made a horrific grinding sound. We proceeded very slowly with strange noises each time we accelerated. The busy streets were not happy having a large bus travelling about 10 miles an hour. There was much honking and shouting. After several miles of this they announced that we had transmission issues (no joke) and that another bus was on the way. We sat at the road side until the arrived and took us to the large dock in town to get back to the ship. This dock was extremely crowded and the line to go anywhere was long. Boats were unloading and then reloading before moving away which took a lot of time. There were lots of young people and they were all friendly and an amazing number of them had braces on their teeth we noticed. Finally it was our tenders' time to dock and we were about the last people on this one and we were glad we made it. The next tender had to wait on a large ferry to unload before it could get in. We made it back on the ship and quickly realized we had not eaten lunch. Starving we showered and dressed for a large dinner. We were seated with some “interesting” people and we skipped dessert so we could make our escape. We went to a fantastic show, Street Singing, about 4 friends forming a male singing group. Excellent music and a wonderful day.

Today was a day for resting. We did get up and exercise. We then went to the Crows Nest to hear about sailing around the Isle of Marajo which is the largest river island in the world, the size of Switzerland. When we rounded this island we made our way into the Amazon River which was flowing 12 miles an hour against us. The river here is 300 miles wide and supplies 1/5 of the world's fresh water and 1/3 of the world's species of animals live in this Amazon area. Hugh edited pictures and I attended 2 classes on cooking and entertaining. Today we were invited to a champagne brunch in the dining room for HAL mariners who have over 30 days at sea (before this trip). It was delicious and afterwards we walked for a bit and then back to activities. In the afternoon we attended the nature series. We listened to iPods and rested because tonight is the big game, Duke vs. Butler. We had a late formal dinner with great table mates, then changed clothes and went to the Crows Nest where the big screen TV is. There were lots of people but we were the only Duke fans. Victory was sweet and it really was a great game!!

Up later this morning after a very late night. Breakfast and then off to our shuttle into town. We are docked at a freight dock and there is much activity. Shipping on the river is a big business. The ship behind us is being loaded with coal and there is a huge wood chip business at dockside. We boarded our shuttle bus and the 30 mile trip into town afforded ua a chance to see how the people live and work. Central Macapa is just north of the equator. The first thing we saw as we approached is Fortaleza Sao Jose de Macapa. This impressive relic was built in the 18th century to defend the Amazon against French invasions from nearby Guiana. Control of the river meant control of just about everything north of it, so defense was serious business. Hugh and I got off the bus, made a quick trip through the Mercado and headed along the river to the fort. We enjoyed the vegetation, birds, and the people. The fort is huge and impressive with a beautiful view out over the river. From the fort we walked through the outskirts of the city and stopped at a large market and bought wine for our cabin and a tube of toothpaste. We walked through the center of the city looking in markets and stopping to buy pencils for the school in the little village we are visiting in a few days. We enjoyed the bargaining and the people like to try to figure out what we want and there is a lot of laughing. We ended our day back at the river's edge at a covered area with a restaurant. We enjoyed a coke and a cerveza and the cool breeze. There were people eating a late lunch and exclaiming how good the fish (served whole) was. It was served with rice and fries reiterating the fact that the local diet is heavy on carbs/starches. We made our way back to the shuttle station and had to wait a long while for a bus. The sun was hot, the humidity high, and the bus stuffy and not air conditioned. By the time we were back to the ship we both had headaches. We had a very late light lunch and listened to iPods while we rested. Later in the evening we enjoyed a great dinner with delightful companions. We saw the end of the show, a British cabaret act, and then went to watch the NCAA women's basketball championship.

Today it was business as usual, 1 hour of exercise, breakfast, and then a walk. We were walking on deck 6 when the Captain came on and announced that storms during the night and the rushing river (not rushing our direction) had slowed us about 2 hours. We walked and made photos of the large insects that had taken residence on the walls of the ship. Deck 6 is very busy this morning as everyone is hoping for a glimpse of the pink dolphins. After our walk we went for showers and an early lunch so we could be some of the first ones off the ship. After we were docked and cleared it was the hottest part of the day but that that did not stop us. We made our trek from the dock area and joined some others making the walk. By the time we made the turn to the waterfront our companions decided to a take a city bus but still we walked on. We made it to the waterfront and there was a slight breeze and lots to see. The Amazon is wide and swift and definitely the center of city activity. There were fishing boats of all sizes, taxi boats, and true riverboats that carry people on long journeys from town to town. These boats were several decks high with people in hammocks talking, sleeping, etc. as others disembarked and others joined the journey. Santarem is half way between Belem and Manaus and the fare to Manaus is 590 real and took 21/2- 3 days depending on river conditions. The most prevalent sea bird we saw was the black vulture. They are everywhere and I was lucky enough to get my picture with them!! A large boat was unloading handcrafted boats of all sizes and they were tarring the outside and roping the inside at the water's edge. The fishermen in the smaller boats were anxious to show us their catch and wanted Hugh to take their pictures although they will never see them. The further we walked the busier the city got and the hotter we were. We stopped for something to drink and then made our way into city center. We looked in the local shops; Hugh liked the ones selling small diesel engines and also motorbikes. We checked out the outdoor and camping store before we made it to the Central Mercado. This was very interesting because most of the things for sell were made in China and this is where the locals shopped. We ventured to the end of the square and then back to the river. This was a great place to see the “wedding of the waters” where the Tapajos and the Amazon flow side by side without mixing. We climbed the hill to the Vista and enjoyed the view. From there we walked through the shopping area of the locals, saw a lovely cathedral (blue and white), some old colonial buildings with great architecture and at last made our way back to the river side where it was cooler. It was late in the afternoon and commerce was at a peak because the fishermen were selling their catch of the day for dinner that night. We made our way back toward the ship in on-&-off showers which felt very good but we were dry and hot by the time we reached the dock. We looked at some souvenir stands at dockside then hurried to our cabin to change into swimsuits so we could go to the pool and cool off. It felt wonderful and as we truly cooled off we spent a little time in the hot tub before resting at poolside to dry off. As the sun went down we walked around the deck then showered and dressed for dinner. We were seated with 3 lovely ladies from Montreal and had a lively conversation on each of the countries. All 5 decided to go to the show which featured a young singer with an incredible voice. She sang some Broadway tunes and some opera. Our feet were tired and it was late so we retired to our cabin to look over our pictures for the day and then it was good night.

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY TO US!!!
We got up for exercise this morning feeling refreshed after our extra hour of sleep, the time changed! Abs class and stretching are the perfect way to start a day. At breakfast we made plans for our day. Boca is a small village of 100 people and we have pencils for the school. We walked on deck until docking was complete then coated ourselves in sunscreen and insect repellent, grabbed a tender ticket, and headed ashore. Just off the tender we ran into Chris and Barry our English friends and the 4 of us hired a small boat to go up the river. It was an excellent decision as we got away from the crowds and the river was quiet and there was a lovely breeze. Our first stop was at a place where we could see the giant lily pads of which we had seen pictures. They were blooming and very lovely. From there we continued up some small tributaries and own our next stop we visited a small village located at the top of a steep hill. When we got out of our boat children of all ages grabbed our hands and started leading us up. We noticed they paid much more attention to Chris and me than to Barry and Hugh. Must have realized we were the soft touches of the group. We visited a nice school with several rooms and a computer room that reminded me of Ghana. Our boat pilot took us to his home where we were invited in. Chris and I toured the small house, met the missus and the 7 kids. The prize possession was an ancient pedal sewing machine that got lots of use. Barry and Hugh stayed outside watching a neighbor butcher a caiman for dinner and another repairing fishing net. My 2 little boys showed me their classroom and got their pictures made. We enjoyed our visit but we were very warm and ready to get back on the river. We said our goodbyes, gave the kids a treat, and continued on our river trip. When we arrived back in Boca we spent time visiting the small village and had to laugh as it was a bit of a circus. Parents had dressed the kids in native costumes so we would pay to make a picture, kids had their pet monkeys, sloths, capybaras, toucan, parrots, snakes, etc. out for you to photograph. One thing we really enjoyed was the art work of the art teacher from the one room escola (school). We purchased one of his prints and he let me make his picture with his work. As we walked along the shore we saw the pink dolphins jumping and playing. I was even able to get a picture. Our ship had invited 50 local children (some from other villages) to lunch on the ship. We got to ride in the tender with them and there was much laughing and singing. Everyone had smiles! Back on the ship we had a burger and hotdog lunch at poolside. Later in the afternoon I went to the theater for a movie (Love Happens), a real chick flick. Hugh uploaded pictures and video, napped a bit, then started editing. After the movie I went poolside to write in my journal. It is raining off and on; one might think we are in the rainforest or something. We are travelling through a narrower part of the river and can actually see the bank on both sides of the ship. We passed some towns that we will stop at on our way back from Manaus. A cup of Earl Grey, a cooling rain, and a lovely view- it was the perfect afternoon. I met up with Hugh and we walked 2 miles on deck watching the sun go down with patches of rain in the distance. We showered and dressed for our dinner in the Pinnacle Restaurant, for our anniversary. We walked around the ship until time to be seated. The service was superb and so was the food. We had a 2 hour dinner ending just in time for the show. This was a 3 part show with a pianist, a singer, and an instrumentalist. Excellent! Now off to bed!

Up early and off to exercise. We claimed our mats and warmed up for 25 minutes before our abs. class. We are both really enjoying these classes. We had breakfast in the Lido and Hugh went to work out with weights. I walked on deck and made pictures as we approached Manaus. We are actually arriving earlier than expected and everyone is excited. We dock and I got ready for the day, sunscreen, insect repellent, hat, etc. Manaus, in NW Brazil is the Amazonia capital. Accessible by ocean going vessels, Manaus has a busy port, exporting Brazil nuts, timber, and other rainforest products. We have a tour this morning and will see the city highlights before exploring on our own. We are in a holding pattern now, waiting for the health inspectors to clear our ship. We were cleared quickly and our tour was off on time. We have a guide who speaks English well and is happy to tell us about his city. Our first stop is St. Sebastian square. At this one stop we saw Sebastian Cathedral, the Hall of Justice, and the famous Manaus Opera House. The height of Manaus wealth and decadence are very visible in the over the top Opera House. Still open for performances, it seats over 700 people. It was completed in 1896. Most of the materials used in construction, such as the Italian marble and glass, and the Scottish cast iron were imported from Europe. Although the wood is Brazilian it was sent to Europe for carving. In the ballroom we donned slippers to preserve the marquetry in the floor. Back on the bus we drove over the 100 year old bridge, visited the Manaus palace of Waldemar Scholz who had a profitable rubber exporting business. WW1 wiped out his business and the palace is now a cultural museum. Scholz was so rich at one time he sent his laundry to Europe because he considered the water used in Manaus was dirty. We also drove through the city renovation project where the government is trying to rid itself of the stilt home (squatter slums) that cover the hillsides down to the river. They have built apartments and made green spaces for the people as they tear down the homes. We were back to the ship for a late lunch. Later in the afternoon we took the Amsterdam Sauer free shuttle to the other side of town to their store at the Tropical Hotel. This is a more elite area with beaches, amusement parks, high-rises, and luxury resorts. The Tropical houses H. Stern and Amsterdam Sauer but both stores were small and held little interest for us. We just wanted the free transportation. After exploring we took the shuttle back to the ship in time for a quick dinner and a movie. It was a late night and we have to be up early.

Today we are up early and so excited about our riverboat trip up the Amazon. We had an early breakfast and were on our way by 8:30. The riverboat was 2 stories and covered which was nice. We traveled slowly and our guide told us about the Indians living in the small villages we past. Most of them are fishermen and the ones who make the most money fish for aquarium fishes. He told us they can live on the land but cannot own it or vote unless they give up their Indian heritage and become Brazilian citizens. We arrived at a small pier and left the big boat and boarded canoes (8 per canoe) and went into the jungle along the small tributaries. We saw the giant lily pads, egret, river chickens, hawks and vultures. There was a boat with children and a 3 meter anaconda that was their pet (oh joy, warm and fuzzy). We saw growth so thick it didn't get sunlight and giant kapok trees. It was a pleasant trip even though we didn't see as many animals as I would have liked. Back on the riverboat we traveled to where the 2 rivers, the Rio Solemoes and the Rio Negra meet to become the great Amazon. The muddy brownish-yellow Solemoes meets the incoming black Rio Negra and a distinct stripe flows down the center befoe eventually blending about 3 miles downriver. This phenomenon occurs because of differences in temperature, pH, and speed. We then made our way back to the ship. We had a quick lunch and then went off the ship and made our way into the hustle and bustle of the streets on Saturday. There are stalls selling everything and people everywhere. We made our way past the confusion and ended up at the Opera House square. We looked in some art shops and then made our way to the Military-police Academy where they were having an exhibition. Suddenly it was 3:45 and we had to be back on the ship at 4:30. We walked quickly-at least I did. Hugh stopped to try to buy popcorn but due to language problems and cost, he left empty handed. We made it to the port and got on the last port shuttle. Back on board we plugged in batteries, started pictures uploading, and went to exercise. After exercise we walked on deck, showered, and had a lovely dinner with 2 couples we had eaten with before and a new couple from NJ. We went to the show and it was hilarious. Lee Bayliss, Con-man, Comedian, Liar, and Thief was how he was billed and he lived up to it. Everyone enjoyed it. We went back to our cabin and looked at our pictures from the day and then off to bed.

Up early again today for exercise (aren't we good?) and then breakfast. We have no definite plans today but will go into to town at some point. Typical rainforest weather, cloudy with a mist; they get an inch of rain almost every day. We took our time packing up our raingear, cameras, and such and by the time we made it to the tender the sky had opened up. We decided to go for it and headed on to shore. Raincoats on, we headed into town. We saw a pedicab and he offered a city tour for 2 for 10 reals or 7.50 dollars. We decided to go for it and it was great. We were under a canopy and had an umbrella but we still managed to get wet. We saw the 2 cathedrals, the school, the square, and of course, the stadium where the big festival is held. This is the largest annual party in the Amazonas and it is known at the Boi-Bumba festival. The festival, held each June, is a traditional folkloric festival that combines African and European traditions. The festival enacts the kidnapping, death and resurrection of an ox and is a metaphor for the agricultural cycle. Every person in town either supports the red or blue teams. The population of Parintins swells to over 300,000 people with 35,000 filling the stadium each night. It is so over the top that it rivals Rio's Carnival. We were impressed with the stadium (as big as a football stadium) and it's grounds (rivals state fair grounds at home). After our pedicab ride we shopped the shops and walked through the town. At the river's edge a darling little boy of about 8 named Julio presented me with a flower and a bow. He asked to practice his English. He was a great kid and pointed out birds and plants. We finished early afternoon and headed back to the ship. After drying off we had lunch in the main dining room and decided to listen to iPods until the sail away. We exercised and then watched the end of the Masters before showering and heading to dinner. We had a long leisurely dinner with 2 Canadian couples and then headed to bed (lose an hour tonight) and we have an early morning.

We got up and exercised, had breakfast, and rushed back to get our cameras and raincoats. We got one of the first tenders and arrived at Alter do Chao, which is a beach resort for Santarem. It is located in a very beautiful bay in the Rio Tapajos and is overlooked by 2 easily climbable hills, one in the shape of a church altar, giving the place its name. Most of the year the bay is surrounded by white sand beaches, which combine with the deep blue of the Tapajos to give it a Mediterranean look. When we got off the tender we were immediately in a little peddler square. No one was bargaining, thus no one was buying. On our way in to the town we walked residential streets with lush foliage. We saw vultures, parrots, and parakeets in the trees and a lot of blooming plants with bright large flowers. The town area was small with a central square. In the square we saw children turning cart wheels, peddlers and musicians. We shopped the handicraft stores without buying. It is proving harder to spend our last reals than we thought. From the town area we walked to the water. There was a lovely paved walkway and we walked the whole path. There were lots of boats, some with families, small ones offering rides, fishermen working on their boats or nets, and one precious little boy helping his dad bail. We made it to a beach area with small restaurants and bars, cabanas for resting, and warm water for swimming. We strolled back through town, saw the school and school bus. We eventually made our way back to the square and Hugh bought a small hand carved paddle for Dan. We walked slowly through the street looking out for more wildlife. Once we made it back to the port area we were determined to rid ourselves of our last reals, but try as hard as we could we ended up with 5 leftover. The tender line was long so I kept trying to bargain to no avail. After long lines, heat, and humidity we eventually made it on a tender and got back to the ship right before sail away. Very late lunch and then some pool time. When we checked our emails we found out that Hugh's mom was in the hospital critically ill. We spent a long evening worrying and emailing back and forth. We checked into the chance of flying home from Barbados but no decision was made. After a light dinner we went to a magic and mindreading show (Galithia Conexion) but had a hard time concentrating. Sleep did not come easily.

Today we were up early and exercised, had breakfast, and checked our emails. Bonnie was stable but critical. Keeping close tabs on her, we went to a port talk and a culinary arts brunch. We rested a bit poolside as we had slept poorly. We ate a late lunch at poolside and Hugh stayed to process pictures and I went to a presentation on desserts. At 3 pm we met poolside for the King Neptune Ceremony. This ceremony commemorates a sailors first crossing of the equator. Our ship had crossed twice already and had angered Neptune by not inviting him aboard. He had to be appeased so he and his queen were invited on board, met by the Captain and his staff (Capt. PJ apologized profusely) and then the Polliwogs were presented, each by department. The first group was spared but had to kiss the fish, get slimed, and then sit in the sun. The next group was thrown in the drink (pool) after kissing the fish and getting slimed and so on with each group. Then the prosecutor (Chris, Cruise Director) got a pie in the face and had to kiss the fish. Very Amusing!! It was sunset stretch class time and we headed to the spa. After exercise we decided to eat in the Lido buffet. We showered, dressed casually, and had a great lobster dinner, and made the 8 pm show. This evening was a violinist who is a gold medal winner. She was excellent and we both enjoyed it. We walked around the ship, read our newspaper, and then checked email one last time. No bonnie news, relief! Off to bed.

Today we were up very early. 6:30 Hugh was doing machines and weights while Susan did dance aerobics. 7 am we both did awesome abs and then at 7:30 we did the morning stretch. We had a great breakfast and drank lots of fluids. We then went to deck 6 and met our group for the Susan G Komen, On Deck for the Cure, 5K walk. We were a fast group but the winner was a young woman pushing her patient (a very large man) in a wheelchair. She made the rest of us feel weak. When we finished we were wet with sweat and immediately changed into swimsuits and headed for the pool. The water was fresh and cool (hadn't had time to get bath water warm yet). After our swim we got in the hot tub and then went back to the cabin for a shower. At lunch I talked to Trey and he said Bonnie is more stable and we agreed I would call him again tomorrow before making any plans. During lunch we decided we needed fluids more than anything but still managed to eat well. I went to a culinary program on cupcakes and Hugh went to a Q&A with the Captain. Then it was time for the port talk and then sunset stretch. While I exercised Hugh rested (AKA slept). I rushed back and showered as we had 6:30 reservations for the Canaletto Restaurant. The food and service were excellent and we finished just in time to go the show. It was Live from the Stardust Lounge night and our singer from Broadway put on a great show. This ship has had most excellent evening entertainment.

Today we got up early not only to exercise but to watch the ship position its self off Devil's Island. As we were exercising we felt the ship rolling about a bit and worried that we would not get to go ashore. The current was strong and the waves were high. Anchoring in this area can be a problem and we had been told if the conditions were not right we would not attempt it. As the ship passed between two islands it calmed a bit and we were cleared. We ate quickly and attempted to get ahead of the crowds. Because of the choppy water, boarding the tenders was challenging and took a while. It was hard to stabilize them alongside the ship. The trip across was rough and the disembarkation again took a while. Devils Island is the smallest and northern-most island of the 3 Isles du Salut (Salvation Islands) located 6 nautical miles off the coast of French Guiana. It has an area of 34.6 acres and was part of the notorious French penal colony in Fr. Guiana until 1952. The penitentiary was first opened by Emperor Napoleon III's government in 1852 and went on to become one of the most infamous prisons in history. This was a great day to walk and we covered every pathway before we were through. We initially walked the middle paved path up to the church, the guards housing, and the cell blocks. There we also saw the lighthouse and helicopter landing pad which were close to the ruins of the hospital. We saw the in-ground cistern where they stored their water. When we reached the other side of the cistern there was an old building that now houses a restaurant, a mini museum, and an expensive French gift shop. This also housed the only toilets on the island and they were horrid. We saw parrots, monkeys and capybaras. The trees were old and beautiful, the foliage lush, and if you didn't know the history it could seem to be paradise. We walked around the island along the shore and it was rocky and the current was strong and the sea rough. We were told it was shark infested but we did not see any. It started to rain and the path back up the hill was slick with mud. Our shoes, feet, and legs were covered by the time we made it to the museum. There was a lot of history here but only part had any English translation (typical French culture). We took the steep stone steps down to the muddy lower path and eventually made our way back to the tender, muddy and tired, but agreeing it had been a great day. After a shower, a phone call to Trey (Bonnie is better), and a late snack lunch, Hugh sorted pictures and attended a lecture on herbs. We met back at the cabin and listened to our iPods and rested until sail away. I went to sunset stretch but Hugh worked on pictures. After dressing for dinner we went to the dining room and then made a late entrance for the show. She was an excellent English singer from London's West-End theaters. We then stayed for the Marriage Game which was hilarious and the women won easily. Now off to bed.

We got up today at 6 am to get to exercise so we could get mats. The classes are very popular. This also gives us time to do the machines and I do an aerobic warm-up before the class. We have been very good on this trip even though we have eaten well. After breakfast I headed to the Culinary Arts Center for a class on Indonesian cooking and Hugh sorted pictures in the Showroom at Sea. I met him there for the port talks on Roseau and Tortola. After that we went to the chat with the ship's doctor. This was great except for a few people who wanted to tell their whole medical history and get his opinion. After lunch I went back to the culinary arts presentation on healthy snacks and Hugh went to the Exploration Speaker series on islands. I stayed for the movie of the day with some friends. The Ugly Truth was a cute chick flick and the popcorn was great. I met Hugh for our cruise director Chris's talk on life at sea and then we stayed for the guest talent show. We then went to afternoon stretch. Tonight is a formal night and after we dressed it was off to the show (earlier tonight because of Black and White Ball) and then to dinner. The show was a variety and all 3 entertainers were terrific. A very pleasant evening!!

No exercise today but we are up early and out on deck for our docking in Bridgetown. After breakfast we departed on our Photo Tour of the island. Our tour was lead by an award winning photographer, Ronnie Carrington. He is a native and his work is world renowned. He just finished an assignment with National Geographic. He was very informative and gave photo tips as well as island history. Our first stop was at the entrance to a grand estate so we could practice our skills. Next we went to the “Scotland District” on the east coast. This area of undulating topography occupies 1/7 of Barbados land mass. This area is one of the islands most picturesque. The churches interspersed with rum shops and chattel houses add the charm of rural village life. We stopped at a restored chattel house for photos. The chattel house is rapidly disappearing. The high pitched gable roofs, without eaves, enable these houses to withstand the high winds so common in the hurricane belt. There are only a few remaining with traditional jalousie shutters and window hoods. Their design facilitated easy dismantling and moving to a new location which was important to freed slaves as they could not own property. We stopped at 2 overlooks on different sides of the island. Our last stop was at Bathsheba. This was a beautiful beach area with colorful vendors, birds, rock formations, and of course, the rum shop. We made pictures galore and enjoyed the people in the rum shop more than the rum punch. We then drove through a very busy part of the island on our way back to the port. I made pictures out the back window and hope they show some of the interesting things we saw like a working rubber plant and some more of the chattel houses. We had a snack lunch and quickly got a taxi downtown. This was a busy area but the main attraction was jewelry shops. We made pictures of some old colonial style buildings, a lovely church, the Cheapside Market, and some gardens. We slowly walked through the parks and along the coast until we were back at the port just in time to board before sail away. We went on top for last view photos and then I went to stretch class while Hugh napped. Tonight we ate in the buffet dining room and then went to the Liars Club. This was where the audience had to guess who was lying about the meaning of a very obscure word. It was hilarious and the 3 crew who told the tales were very imaginative. Our show this evening was a special presentation by our Broadway stars and it was wonderfully done. Each star performed their favorite numbers and this made it very personal. This was another long day in the heat and so it was off to the cabin to look at pictures and sleep! *note-it is considered offensive to wear camouflage clothing in Barbados.

Up early today for sail in pictures, exercise, and of course, breakfast. By 9:15 we were walking around town and realizing it was going to be a hot, hot day. We walked through the Old Market Plaza (restored slave market) and also through the New Market. At 10:15 we joined our tour to the highlights of the island. Our guide is a cute local girl named Julie Bonny. Our first stop was a beautiful overlook called Morne Bruce, allowed us to see Roseau and the harbor area. Hugh found a rum bottle and posed for pictures; everyone had a good laugh. From there we traveled to the interior part of the island passed a sugar cane factory and made a stop at the Botanical Gardens. Here we saw sausage trees, nutmeg trees, and cinnamon trees. We also saw Imperial and Red-necked parrots. The gardens used to be 200 acres but hurricanes in 79 and 92 have reduced it to a lovely 44 acres. From there we made a stop at one of the islands many rivers. We saw flame trees (African tulip trees), lush vegetation and the rushing river. We proceeded up into the world's 2nd highest rainforest. The weather changed from sunny to cloudy and sticky, to pouring rain. This area receives an inch a day on the average. We donned our slickers, grabbed our cameras and started the hike to Jacko Falls. Only a very few people made the hike and it was quiet and lovely. The vegetation is lush and the sound of the water restful. We made lots of pictures and enjoyed this very much. We made our way back to the bus and on our way into town we went on Confession Hill, a curvy winding road that went down at a very steep angle. It got its name because if you want to know a secret you take the one who knows it on this road at night and they will tell you anything you want by the time you get down. This was a great tour and back at port we walked around making pictures, enjoying the people, and getting a little shirt for Hudson. Back on board right at sail-away and ready for a cool swim. After our swim we had a snack of pizza and ice cream. We made some laps on the Promenade Deck and then I went to stretch class and Hugh uploaded pictures and showered. We had a lovely dinner that evening and then went to the show. It was a young saxophonist who played the alto and soprano sax, the piano, and also sang. He received a huge ovation and there was a line for his CD's. Late night, tired bodies, off to bed!

Up early, no exercise, breakfast, and then we were off for the day. We went on deck for our sail into Tortola, BVI. This island had great memories for us, sailing small kids, great fun. We were ready to disembark as soon as we could and we made a power walk to the ferry terminal to go to The Bath's on Virgin Gorda. There were about 20 us on this independent adventure and we got our tickets which included our shuttle on Virgin Gorda and boarded the ferry just before it launched. It was an easy trip because this ferry planed-smoother and faster. On Virgin Gorda we boarded a surrey bus for our trip to the Baths. We reminisced about our first trip here and we are surprised to see restaurants, stores, and beach vendors. The area has been made into a National park and we have to pay admission. Good news was that the actual sight hasn't changed and is just as beautiful as we remembered. We met a family who had a charter and enjoyed watching their little boys enjoy the fish. Hugh was able to help them identify them and one even found an octopus. We explored the caves and pools, and even climbed the rocks. We swam and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. When it was time to leave we climbed the hill, shopped at the shop with a view, and boarded our surrey bus to the ferry terminal. The trip back to Road Town was uneventful and back on shore we explored the town. It seems so much more civilized than when we were here 24 years ago. We got back on board just in time for sail away. We took a cooling swim and had a light snack lunch as we left the dock. We took our drinks on top and viewed all the different islands of the BVI's as we set our course for Half Moon Cay. We stayed on top until the sun went down and then showered and dressed for dinner. We were seated at a small table, just 4 of us, upstairs by the window. The woman was from Paraguay and her husband from Houston. It was pleasant but not too interesting. Then it was off to the show which was a singer, comedienne, and impersonator. He was terrific doing everything from Neil Diamond, Willie Nelson, Julio Iglesias, Cher, Natalie Cole, Frank Sinatra and Louie Armstrong. He received a huge standing O. Then it was off to the cabin and a look at our pictures of the last 3 days and then sleep!

HAPPY BIRTHDAY RON!!
Today is a day for tying up loose ends. We went to exercise and swapped email addresses with all our friends and had a group photo made. It was hard to say goodbye after a month of morning meetings. After a leisurely breakfast we went our separate ways and I went to write in my journal and Hugh to sort pictures. At 10 we met for our disembarkation lecture and crew good-bye. It was very nostalgic and sad. I went to a culinary event while Hugh continued to organize his pictures. We met for lunch and saw the launch of the boats made by passengers from things found on board. They were incredible and worked well in the hot tub bubbles. I stayed poolside and Hugh went to rest and work on pictures. He decided to come up on deck with me and we had a quiet afternoon. We had a good dinner and the show was a variety of entertainers we had seen before. It was fun and walked a bit and then retired to the cabin and watch soccer.

Last day on board and we are up early. We exercised, had breakfast, and dressed and packed quickly for our shore excursion. We wanted to spend as much time as we could on the island. Half Moon Cay is owned by Holland America and there are only 30 people living on the island. From the ship it is tranquil and the water is the most brilliant blue you can imagine. We took the tender over as soon as we were cleared. It was amazing how beautifully everything is landscaped and maintained. There were small shops for t-shirts and sunscreen, and a small jewelry shop was opening that day. There were bathrooms, showers, beach chairs with or without umbrellas, cabanas, barmaids, and miles of pristine white sand. We walked the length of the beach in the water, swam and just had a great time talking with new friends. At lunch time they had a huge cookout for us and we could choose from hamburgers, hotdogs, chicken, ribs, and all the trimmings. After lunch we walked to the stingray area and watch some passengers swim with them. We made lots of pictures as the colors of the cabanas against the bright blue of the water and sky was lovely. We watched the parasailers and spent more time in the water. It was a great day and all too soon it was 3:30 and time to get back on the tender and head to the ship. We went straight to the pool and cooled off and had an ice cream (this is my last chance to enjoy this treat). The next hour was filled with packing. It is amazing how much quicker this goes when everything is dirty and you are on your way home. Once we had the suitcases ready to go out at midnight, we showered, watched soccer and eventually dressed formally one more time and made our way to our dinner in the Canaletto. It was terrific as always and we made the show in plenty of time. Tonight our Broadway performers are doing an encore show and they are performing things that they have done on Broadway. It was very special and covered a wide variety of music. Brad the tenor for the New Orleans Symphony stole the show. Back to the cabin to put the last few things in and shove the suitcases out the door. Good night!

Today we spent our early morning checking through drawers and closets, even under the bed and in the safe, to make sure we had not forgotten anything. We did not have to leave the ship until 9:30 so we ate later and then brushed teeth, grabbed travel documents, and walked off the ship. It was sooooo easy! We identified our bags, cleared customs and were in a taxi to the airport before 10. When we arrived at the US Air check-in we were afraid we could not check our bags since our flight was not until 3:20. We asked if we could get an earlier flight and she checked and put us on the 10:30 flight to Charlotte. We rushed through security and were the last on the flight. It was an easy flight and we were in Charlotte by lunch. Hugh retrieved the car and I grabbed the bags which amazingly made it and met him at the curb. We stopped for a quick bite and made great time until we reached our exit off the interstate. Less than a mile before our exit traffic was stopped and a power line was blocking both side of the interstate. We waited for 30 minutes or so then we noticed 4-wheel drive vehicles cutting over to the frontage road. We made our way to their path and found out someone had cut the fence. We followed some trucks through and made our way to our exit. We were home before we were supposed to take off and by dinner time wash was completed and suitcases were in the attic. God looks out for us and we are so thankful. It was a great ending to a wonderful trip!! /susan