Black Sea &
Holy Lands
Cruise

Today our latest adventure begins. After securing the house we headed for Charlotte. We walked around South Park, had lunch, and then arrived at the airport. Check-in was 2 minutes and we boarded and left on time. The flight was uneventful but neither of us slept very well. We arrived in Rome on time, luggage arrived, and we were at our hotel before lunch. We were able to check in and we decided to stay at the hotel and relax. We played cards in the bar and had a fun pizza lunch. Naptime followed and we awoke feeling refreshed. After showers we walked the area and then had a leisurely dinner. We met several people on our cruise and made plans to meet for our trip to the ship in the a.m. We watched TV and then it was off to bed

We woke up early and before long we were dressed and packed. We had a great breakfast at the hotel and waited for the airport shuttle. We made the trip with Nina and Randy and once we were at the airport we found our Holland America representative in the arrivals terminal. We were directed to our bus and we were soon on our way to the port. The countryside is lovely and we enjoyed our one hour drive. At the port check-in area we made quick work of pictures, boarding cards, etc. We met a couple that was on our Baltic cruise last year and it was fun to reunite with them. They are on for 28 days also and we look forward to having them on our overnights. Before we were even hungry we were in the lunch buffet. We ate outside by the pool and the sun is shining and it is a great day to start a cruise. Our cabin was ready and we moved in sans luggage. We emptied our carry-ons and enjoyed exploring. We have a huge walk-in closet with shelves and drawers. We also have a lovely bath with soaker tub and shower. The king-sized bed looks inviting but we decided to walk in to Citavecchia. It was about a 15 minute walk through the dock area and we enjoyed the forts and all the ships in the harbor. In town we found all the tourist shops and vendors located near the gate into the city. We decided to bypass these and we walked further and were able to see a small Italian town at work, school, and play. We found a market and Hugh was able to make his purchase. We slowly made our way back to the ship mid afternoon. We then had our luggage and we unpacked, pressed, and hung our limited wardrobe. We were set for the next 28 days. I went to a cooking demonstration and met Annette the party planner on board. I plan to see lots of her. At 4:15 we had our lifeboat drill and later we went to a raffle in the Spa. I won an acupuncture treatment and I am not sure which ache or pain I will get treated. We showered and made our way to the dining room. We had a lovely dinner with 2 couples that had just arrived and were very tired. They retired to their cabin and we went to the 9:30 show. When the show was over it was with open arms that we greeted our bed, jet lag's lingering effect.

This morning we got up at 6:30 and made our way to the Ocean Bar for our first exercise class of the cruise. Rizal, our instructor, is very thorough and by 8 we had stretched and vigorously worked out every muscle group. We have high hopes of doing this every morning…time will tell. After my favorite eggs Benedict we showered and made our way to the talk on excursions. Judy, the head of excursions was not very knowledgeable and very hard to understand. Thank goodness Frank Buckingham, the travel guide, was there to add his comments. This talk made us anxious to get to our destinations. After the talk we joined Frank for our sail past Stromboli. This island has several towns and villages all overseen by an active volcano. As we sailed past we saw several large black puffs fill the air. We had a great time making pictures and enjoying the beautiful scenery as we sailed into the Ionian Sea. When we were past Stromboli we made our way to the dining room for lunch. This was new for us and very enjoyable. After our lunch, including dessert and cappuccino, we again went on deck for the ail through the Strait of Messina, a narrow passage with the toe of Italy on one side and Sicily on the other. I made pictures and Hugh decided to take a nap. It was lovely and I hope I have some great shots. When Hugh woke up we dressed for our formal night and made our way to dinner. We were seated with 3 other couples and had a lively dinner. Food was great and rack of lamb and surf and turf were the entrees of choice. We were able to make it to the first show and it was a lively Latin show called Caliente. The singers and dancers on this ship seem to be quite good. The show was introduced by our captain and he has a wonderful sense of humor. His announcements each day give you no idea as to his personality. After the show we walked around a bit and then headed to the cabin to watch the news and some sports. By 11 it was goodnight world.

The clock went off at 6:30 and amazingly we got up and went to exercise. As we were sweating through the very good exercise Rizal prefers we saw the sun come up and the Greek town of Pylos come into view. After class we headed for breakfast and continued to enjoy our view and eggs Benedict. After breakfast Hugh grabbed his camera and headed up top to make pictures while I showered. I went on deck while he got ready for the day. We did not sign up for a tour here and started out with no set plan. This was a tender port and it took only a few minutes to board and get into the jetty dock. We took our time wandering the streets around the main square and did some sniffing and gawking at the wonderful bakeries located there. We did some window shopping, store browsing, and just strolling with sodas in hand. We eventually made our way to the Greek Orthodox Church there and enjoyed a lovely view. Our next stop was the fort we had seen as we sailed in. Pylos was occupied by the Venetians in 1471 who built fortresses in both new and old Navarino and followed by the Turk’s in 1499. In 1821 with the Greek War of Independence the Turks were forced to surrender the castle. In 1825 Ibrahim occupied the castle and the town but they were regained by the allied forces with the sea battle of Navarino. This fortress is fun to explore and we spent our time walking to the top of the wall and enjoying the lovely view. The sun was high and the temp was rising as we did our final exploration including a walk through the museum. We strolled slowly back into town stopping to watch swimmers at a little beach and making more pictures. We then strolled through the main square which is covered with small outdoor restaurants. Early afternoon after covering the area thoroughly, we made our way to the tenders and back to the ship. We again had lunch in the main dining room and then went to the theater to see The Kings Speech. We both loved it and the popcorn they served. At 5 I went to the upper deck for sail away and Hugh went to the library. Sail away was delayed because of paperwork so I journaled and enjoyed the view. After sail away we showered and joined friends for dinner. The show this evening was fantastic, a pianist who played music from around the world, non-stop, for 1 hour. He was so talented and received a standing ovation. We stopped to hear the string trio on our way to the stateroom.

Even though today was a sea day we got up at 6:30 for exercise with Rizal. We did the morning stretch and full body toning. This was such a good way to start our day! We had a leisurely breakfast, showered, and made it to the 10 am port talk on Egypt. Every time I hear about this area my anticipation mounts. After the talk Hugh processed pictures and I went to a cooking class. I love a day to just do what you want or nothing at all. At noon we met in the dining room for the Raj buffet and sampled Indian foods which were good but not as spicy as we anticipated. There was pepper bread that brought tears to the eyes and cleared the sinuses. I journaled for a while and then we went to a wine tasting. This was great and we sampled 5 wines, 2 white and 3 red. Ferdinand our steward gave us excellent advice on shopping for wines. We had always wondered why they serve cheese at wine tastings and we were told that it changes the taste of the wine often for the better so when you get home the wine you purchased is not as pleasing as it was at the tasting. He suggested using only bread and water when tasting to choose a wine. We also learned about swirling and the “leg” of the wine. What fun!!!! After the wine we went to our stateroom and packed for our overnight in Egypt and looked at our pictures from Pylos. Late in the afternoon we had to get our passports because we are required to have them at all times while in Egypt. As it was formal night we spent some time dressing and made it to the dining room in time to join 3 other couple we had been seeing around the ship. We had a great time and all 4 couples’s skipped dessert to go to the show. We enjoyed it and then stopped to listen to the trio that plays nightly. They are not as entertaining as the Asian trio from last cruise but still quite good. Off to bed to prepare for our Egyptian adventure. We have been told to prepare for exhaustion at the end!

Today we were up very early mostly because we were so excited. We opened our drapes just as we arrived in Alexandria, Egypt. Alexandria is the 2nd largest city and the major port of Egypt. The port was busy and very commercial. We had breakfast and enjoyed the view as we docked. We grabbed our backpack (we packed lightly) and arrived at the Ocean Bar in time to be assigned to the first bus. Several of our friends were also on this bus, hooray! Clearing customs was very efficient and we were soon through the very nice cruise terminal and on our buss. Security is very tight here and we had a plainclothes security person complete with gun on our bus. Our guide was Mae and she was a non-stop talker giving us a lot of information on Egyptian culture today and promised the ancient history as we approached the Pyramids. We only travelled through Alexandria but we were shocked at how dirty it was, rubbish, not just litter, on all the streets. Mae informed us that in Egypt there is no trash collection because of a dispute with the Italian company that had been hired to perform this task. Please note this has been going on for years and people just dump in the streets. We were travelling early so the traffic was not bad going away from the city. Some information that was shared included:
1. 88 million people
2. Education is mandatory and free but only 1-6 grades
3. 37% illiteracy average- much higher in women
4. National average salary $150/mo
5. Oil is subsidized by the government and cheap at $1.50/per gallon
6. Latest revolution was in January; "Arab Spring," and was considered a positive thing. Still waiting on election.

Our trip to Cairo took about 3 hours and traffic was much slower as we neared the city. Everyone on the bus was shocked that the Great Pyramids of Giza were almost in the town and can be seen as you enter the city. We were oriented by the Nile River, one side is Cairo and the other is Giza. We made our first stop at the Step Pyramids of Saqqara. Intended to hold his mummified body, Pharaoh Djoser's Step Pyramid at Saqqara began as a traditional, flat-roofed mastaba. But by the end of his 19-year reign, in 2611 B.C., it had risen to six stepped layers and stood 204 feet (62 meters) high. It was the largest building of its time. Extensive use of stone, here and there carved to resemble wood, reeds, or other softer materials made the tomb more durable than its mud-brick forebears. Such pioneering techniques led many ancient historians to credit the chief architect, Imhotep, with inventing stone architecture. The Step Pyramid complex was enclosed by a 30-foot (10-meter) wall and included courtyards, temples, and chapels covering nearly 40 acres (16 hectares)—the size of a large town in the third millennium B.C. These are well preserved and there is constant effort to insure preservation. We traveled through the ancient corridor with all its rooms to the very impressive pyramid with its fantastic view of the Sahara. Just as we had been warned, we were accosted by the vendors and camel drivers wanting to make our pictures but they were not aggressive. This was a good way to ease us into the craziness that awaited us at the Great Pyramids. We had a lovely lunch at the Mena House Oberoi which lies at the foot to the famous Pyramid of Cheops. This hotel was originally a hunting lodge and the garden area was the site of 2 famous peace talks, Roosevelt and Churchill, and Carter and Sadat. Our next stop was the Great Pyramids of Giza which we had seen since our arrival in Cairo. My first impression was that they were even bigger than I had expected, even the smallest of the three. My second impression was where did all of these vendors and camels come from. We had been warned but it was still a bit overwhelming. They are not threatening just persistent. If you say "no" they say "maybe later", you say "no" again and they say "where you from" and they become your new best friend and you will see them again and again. I have to confess I did ride a camel and it was scarier than riding an elephant. According to ancient Greek historian Herodotus, Khufu (aka Cheops) enslaved his people to build his pyramid. But archaeologists have since disproved his account. On the Giza Plateau, Khufu's builders oriented his pyramid almost perfectly north. The largest pyramid ever built, it incorporates about 2.3 million stone blocks, weighing an average of 2.5 to 15 tons each. It is estimated that the workers would have had to set a block every two and a half minutes. The middle sized pyramid belongs to Cheops son, Khafre. Though Khafre's pyramid is shorter than his father Khufu's nearby Great Pyramid, Khafre made up for it by building at a higher elevation and surrounding his pyramid with a more elaborate complex. You can go into the smallest pyramid but we chose not to as you have to go in on your knees with you back bent plus there is nothing to see as the tomb is empty. We had a non-stop view of the Sahara here and it is so close to the city. We then made our way for a close up of the sphinx which was built over a rock that could not be moved. The Sphinx is the largest monolith statue in the world, standing 241 feet long, 20 feet wide, and 66.34 feet high. It is the oldest known monumental sculpture, and although debated greatly no one knows who the model for the face was. The structure had been partially covered by sand which was fortuitous as it helped preserve it. The nose and the beard are gone and there are various stories as to what happened. They are not to be restored as no one knows what they looked like originally. With the face of a man and the body of a lion, it guards Khafre Pyramid. We were able to walk and photo very close to the Sphinx. Soon it was time to board the bus for our hotel in the heart of Cairo. It was a fast trip into the city and there is no relief from the trash. We made it to our hotel (Four Seasons Cairo) and it is across the street from the Cairo Zoological Gardens. We had our keys and so we went directly to our suite. We have 3 rooms and a closet that is large enough to sleep in. We showered and we were ready on time for our shopping trip and light show. The shopping stop was fun and I actually purchased a cartouche and it was to be delivered the next day. Outside the shop my camel buddy from the pyramids found me with my camel riding picture. I purchased it only because of his ingenuity. We then boarded our bus and rode through downtown. We saw sheep waiting to be butchered, lots of people, and even more cars. We arrived for the Sound and Light Show. We parked and made our way through security and into the seats. This was a delightful and educational show on the pyramids history. When the show was over we went to the Le Meridien for a late dinner. It was a buffet and to me the best was the soup and bread. Our cartouches were delivered tonight and they were lovely. We again boarded the bus and soon we were at the hotel and ready for bed. We packed so we would be ready for the early wake-up call.

This morning we had a 6:30 wake-up call and we were up quickly and showered, dressed, and at the free coffee by 7:15. After everyone had checked out we rode to the bank of the Nile and The Pharaohs dining boats. We boarded these very lovely boats for a breakfast cruise down the Nile. The breakfast was buffet and we enjoyed the view and the lively conversation at our table. The weather was great and we were able to go on top for a better view. After breakfast we travelled through the city to the Citadel, home to Egypt’s ruler for almost 700 years. Originally founded in 1176 by Saladin, its Mosque and battlements reflect a diverse heritage. Dominating the East Cairo skyline, The Mohammed Ali Mosque is the main attraction. Constructed in the 17th century on orders of reformist Mohammed Ali, who is regarded as the founder of modern Egypt, it is modeled along classic Turkish lines. There is a central dome and 2 towering slender minarets. The clock was a gift from King Louis-Philippe of France in exchange for the obelisk in the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Mohammed Ali’s tomb is in the Prayer Hall. From the Citadel we fought traffic through Cairo, and on the way we saw burned out buildings and other evidence of recent rebellions. We arrived at the Egyptian Museum (Antiquities Museum), a very large pink building built and opened in 1902 replacing other smaller ones. An even larger museum is scheduled to open in 2012 in Giza. There are over 120,000 items on display. All are authentic with one exception, The Rosetta stone is a copy. The museum is divided into 3 parts, old kingdom, middle kingdom, and new kingdom. We were able to see the highlights of each area but our concentration was on the Tutankhamen Galleries. Here we saw the Royal Lion Throne and the life sized gold statues of the King and his burial mask which is also gold. There were 2 jewelry rooms and more gold than you can fathom. From the museum we went to lunch at the Marriott; not you everyday Marriott, the dining area here is in a palace constructed for the opening festivities of the Suez Canal in 1869. Our lunch was delicious. There were also shops of all types in the hotel and lots of people came on the bus with bags. We purchased a book on the museum as the museum store had been damaged in the January uprising and not reopened and we could make no pictures in the museum. We began our trip to Port Said and were able to rest. Toward the end of the trip Mae gave us the history of the Suez Canal. As early as the 7th cntury Egyptians had ideas of connecting the Mediterranean to the Red Sea with a canal. The modern canal construction began in April, 1859 and the canal opened in 1869. The construction was a building boom in Egypt; hotels, opera houses, apartments, etc. It took 20,000 people to build it and there were 200 plus fatalities each year. It is 100 miles long, 40 land miles and 60 lake miles. The opera Aida was written for the opening but was not completed so Rigoletta was performed. It is still a very large money maker for Egypt with nearly constant traffic moving through the canal. We were able to see huge container ships moving through the canal and exiting into the area where the Prinsendam was docked. When we arrived back the crew greeted us with cool cloths and a glass of champagne. I quickly ran to the cabin to brush my teeth and get to my acupuncture treatment (won this in a raffle). My acupuncturist put about 30 needles in me, ears to feet. This did not hurt and then I rested for 30 minutes and she took them out, again no pain. I wish I could say I had great relief but alas no, same old pains. We had a quick dinner in the Lido and then made it to the show. I had wash to complete so after the show we headed to the cabin. Laundry finished, we packed for Israel, looked at pictures, and watched a little CNN before bed.

Up very early this morning as we had to have breakfast and clear customs by 6:30. We were prepared for a hassle but everything went very smoothly and efficiently. We left our bags in the disembarkation area and checked our email as we waited to begin our tour at 7:30. We left the ship, cleared more immigration officials, and boarded our bus. We have a group of 8 that were together in Egypt and are prepared for a great time. Our guide is Monet who is Jewish but says she will tell us all the Christian history and she did. Her first comment was on her Jewish heritage, “the motto of my people is we bitch therefore we are-Yes we complain about everything.” As we travelled through Ashdod we noticed the cleanliness of the city in direct contrast to all of Egypt. Our first stop was a quick bathroom break and what makes this memorable is that it was done (whole busload) in 10 minutes. We stopped for our first visit in Jerusalem at the Mount of Olives Observation Point. Here we saw the garden tombs and looked out over the Kidron Valley, the gold Dome of the Rock, and old Jerusalem. We could see the oldest Jewish cemetery still in use today. In the Old City wall we saw the blocked-up double arched Gate of Mercy or Golden Gate. Jewish tradition holds that the Messiah will enter Jerusalem this way; Christian tradition says He already did on Palm Sunday. From here we made our way to the Mt. of Olives. This is where Jesus taught and wept over the city (Luke 19:41). We walked the Palm Sunday Road and stopped at the ancient olive trees in the Garden of Gethsemane. This was where Jesus agonized and prayed and was in the end betrayed here. We went to the Church of All Nations where the Rock of Agony is at the altar (where Jesus endured the Passion). We walked up the hill to board our bus for a quick (short distance) trip to Old City. While we boarded the bus we had a great view of the Church of Mary Magdalene, a Russian Orthodox Church with sculpted white torrents’ and gold onion domes. We also saw Dominus Flevit, the tear-shaped church whose name means Jesus wept. We entered the Old City through the Zion Gate and made our way into the Armenian Quarter. This area was hard to maneuver as there was car traffic. We continued on into the Jewish Quarter. Here we saw King David’s tomb. This is most likely west of the site but 9 centuries of tears and prayers have sanctified the place. We walked to the Room of the Last Supper (Mark 14). This is where the disciples and Jesus took the Passover meal and also where Jesus disciples gathered on Pentecost seven weeks after his death, “were filled with the Holy Spirit”, and began to speak in foreign tongues. We began our walk along the Via Delarosa (The Way of the Cross). This wanders through the busy marketplace of the Jewish and Christian quarters. Here we saw all sorts of interesting shops, food, jewelry, religious artifacts, and restaurants; the funniest was the Holy Rock Café. This area was filled with pilgrims stopping at the Stations of the Cross and tourists shopping and photographing. We made our way to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Most Christians venerate this site as that of the death, burial, and resurrections of Jesus; the last five Stations of the Cross are here. Inside the door we passed the Stone of Unction where Jesus body was prepared for burial. Nearby we took the steps up to Golgotha, or Calvary, meaning the place of the skull as described in the New Testament. The chapel on the right is Roman Catholic and stations 10, 11, and 13 are here. The 12th station, Jesus dies on the cross, is in Dubuque, Iowa. The tomb itself is station 14. On our way out of the Old City we passed through the Jaffe Gate. From the Old City we drove 5 miles south of Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Monet could not travel with us so the bus driver let her out and took us through the checkpoint area which is heavily fortified; we had no trouble. We picked up our Palestinian guide “Mae” and the first thing she pointed out was Rachel’s Tomb. Rachel died in childbirth of Benjamin (Gen.35:19-20). We stopped for a buffet lunch and we were all glad as it was mid afternoon and we were hungry. Next door to the restaurant was our shopping spot; the meal was good but the shopping was not. After everyone was on the bus we made our way to the Church of the Nativity. The stone exterior is crowned by the crosses of the 3 denominations sharing it; Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic (Franciscan), and Armenian Orthodox. This is the oldest standing church in the country. The inside is gloomy and vast. Mae took us to all the different areas ending with the Grotto of the Nativity. This is a cave exactly like one that would have been used as a stable but has been decorated beyond recognition by the 3 denominations. It was a strangely peaceful place and even the riotous tourists were subdued. The Franciscans have possession of the alcove where the manager of the baby Jesus was. We also saw the Church of ST. Catherine and Manger square. On our way out we saw the shepherds’ fields of Bet Sahour. It looks to a lot like it did in Jesus time. We left Mae and waited a while to clear the checkpoint and even had guards board the bus for a walk through. We picked up Monet on the Jerusalem side and made our way to the Olive Tree Hotel where we checked in and had time to rest but most everyone spent time looking in the shops. We ate at the restaurant in the hotel and then we were off to the Western Wall (Wailing Wall) and an illuminated tour of the city. As we made our way into the city we saw the Dome of the Rock all lit up and the walls of the old city looked very nice in the softened light. We were disappointed that there was no illumination of the Russian Church. We entered the Old City through Dung Gate. We cleared the metal detectors and started our walk to the wall. We passed a lot of Orthodox Jewish men and were surprised at how many of them were talking loudly on cell phones at the holiest of sites. The men’s side is much larger than the one for women but the women seem much more subdued and intent on prayer. I made my way to the wall and had a time for prayer. The cracks between the massive stones are stuffed with slips of paper bearing prayers and petitions. These slips of paper are collected and buried in a Jewish cemetery as they often contain God’s name. On our way back to the hotel we saw the Kinesit (Parliament) and several other government buildings. Back at the hotel we said goodnight and prepared for our final full day in Israel.

Today we were up early and went down to breakfast. Everyone in our group is excited about all we will see today. Our first stop is Nazareth. The Nazareth where Jesus grew up was a small village nestled in a hollow in the Galilean hills. Today the city is bustling with 65,000 people and 2/3 of them Muslim. We walked through the streets to the Basilica of Annunciation. Located in this church is a small grotto that is identified by many Catholics as the home of Mary when she was told by the angel Gabriel she was to conceive a child. This is in the lower church and above is located a much used church of today. It is filled with beautiful Italian ceramic reliefs representing the Stations of the Cross. The cupola’s ribs represent a lily signifying Mary’s purity. We visited the small Church of St. Joseph which is built over hewn rock chambers identified as the workshop of Joseph the carpenter. We strolled through the village and boarded our bus for Cana. From Nazareth the road wound down through the Galilean countryside. There was a profusion of olive trees, pomegranates, grapevines, fig trees, and an occasional date palm (scenery is reminiscent of Biblical times). We saw the Cana Wedding Church where Jesus turned the water in wine (John2: 1-11) Today a Catholic Church is on the site. On our way to Galilee we enjoyed the scenery. We were surprised to see kosher and non-kosher McDonald’s. We crossed the Jordan River and continued around the lake (Sea of Galilee). There are no private homes on the lake but kibbutzes are allowed. We had lunch at Gabriel’s House on the south end of the lake and it was excellent. From here we drove to the baptismal site on the Jordan. As we drove Monet told us some facts; Sea of Galilee is a lake, 13 miles long and 7 miles wide, and is 700 ft. below sea level. We made our stop at the baptismal site on the Jordan run by the Kinneret Kibbutz. We witnessed some baptisms and were able to put our feet in the Jordan. There were tremendously large catfish and muskrats in the water. It is a well run attraction but not sure how religious. We shopped for date honey which is the type of honey in the bible. We drove around Tiberius which today is a resort town on the lake. From there we had a view of the lake and the Golan Heights. We travelled to Ginosar where Jesus is said to have walked on the water. It is a Kibbutz today and the most exciting thing they have is a historic boat from Jesus time.

Our next stop was Capernaum called the town of Jesus. This is the town where Peter lived and Jesus stayed with him during his Galilee visit (3yrs) (Matt.4:19). The first site we visited was the remains of the Jewish synagogue dating to the 2-3 AD. When they were excavating they found this synagogue was built over a much smaller synagogue thought to be the one where Jesus taught “I am the bread of life”. The most treasured shrine is Peter’s house where Jesus lodged. An ultra modern church built over the site follows the outline of the small village; raised on pillars it provides protection for the ruins. From Capernaum we drove up to the Mount of the Beatitudes, identified as the site of Jesus most comprehensive teaching recorded as the Sermon on the Mount (Matt.5:3) Pope John Paul II celebrated mass with some 100,000 faithful in 2000. We were able to visit the Roman Catholic Church run by the Franciscan Sisters (Italian). This church was built in 1937 and the windows are inscribed with opening words of the beatitudes. The terrace surrounding the church offers a superb view of the Sea of Galilee. We were there at sunset and the colors were heightened in the softened light. When looking out over the hill it is easy to picture in your mind Jesus in the boat speaking to people on the hillside. We left the mount late and began our drive to Haifa and our ship. As we approached the city we could see the oil refineries that were lit up in blues and greens. We were assured they looked better at night than in the day. Our last stop to complete our tour was Mt. Carmel. We traveled through a tunnel that had just opened and shortened the trip considerably. When we reached the top, Monet showed us where she lives and then we stopped at the lookout to see the Baha’i Shrine and Gardens. Haifa is the center for the Baha’i faith which started in Iran in the 19th century. The shrine is beautiful and the hanging gardens could only be imagined as it was very dark by this time. We had a beautiful view of the harbor and down the mountainside. As we drove to our ship we had a better view up the mountain side to the 19 terraced gardens. We said our farewells to Monet and joined our welcome back party complete with signs, a band, and champagne. We were tired but very happy with all we had seen. After a trip to our cabin to leave the backpack and cameras, we had a late dinner, watched a few minutes of the late show and sleepily made our way to bed.

After a tiring but fantastic 2 days in Israel, we slept in until they brought breakfast in bed. We relaxed, ate, and looked at pictures before showering and heading to the port talk on what to do in Kusadasi. We are trying to make decisions because we done the Ephesus tour, terrace houses, and Mary’s house. After the talk Hugh went to the library to work on pictures and I sat by the pool and journaled. We met for a small lunch and then went to a talk on Piraeus and Athens. We now have ideas about the transportation from the port to Athens but of course will have to wait and see if they are on strike. Hugh went for a short nap and I read and did a load of laundry very quickly and efficiently. Tonight was formal night so we got dressed up and went to a special champagne reception for the people continuing on for 28 days. They had lovely canapés and a choice of white, red, or champagne plus juices and sodas. We mingled with the group and then went to dinner with Jim and Nancy (new friends from LA) and 2 Canadian couples we met tonight. Great dinner with lively conversation and then it was off to a cast production of Moments to Remember. Although it was only 11 we were tired and went to our cabin. Good Night!!!!!

No exercise class this morning, so we showered and headed to breakfast with cameras in hand as we were docking at this time. After breakfast we made photos and then headed out on the first shuttle. We met Tom and Tami on the bus and they wanted to go to Antakya just like us. Hugh and I had decided we wanted to see as many religious sites as we could on this trip and Antakya (Antioch) is nearby. We decided to hire a cab and when we arrived in town we negotiated a deal and headed off with Gunduz in his Fiat minivan. It was 25 minute trip and we saw a lot of the countryside. The streets were difficult to negotiate once we were in Antakya but we arrived at our first and most important stop, Cave Church of St. Peter. According to tradition, this was the place where Sts. Peter and Paul preached during their 2 year residency in Antioch. The crusaders revered the site and the Pope declared it a Holy Site in 1983. Antakya is also known as the place where the word “Christian” was first used to refer to the followers of Christ (Acts 18 &22). We were assured by our driver that he would wait so we headed up the hill to the entrance. We were told if we needed Turkish lire to go to the gift shop to change money. We needed TL and the gift shop hand none. Tami and Hugh went to our driver and he collected what we needed from other drivers. We purchased our tickets and made our way in. All 4 of us felt a sense of peace as we stood in this cave and it was amazing but people who were boisterous outside were subdued on the inside. The garden of the church has been used as a cemetery for hundreds of years. The view from the mountain was also very nice. This was a wonderful stop and our driver was waiting outside the cave to walk us down. He had cold water and gum for us (think he wants a tip?). From the church we travelled down town and stopped at an ATM for money. Our next stop was the magnificent Mosaic Museum where the highlights included a collection of stunning Roman and Byzantine mosaics from 1st-5th centuries A.D. There were burial implements, household pottery, and glass works from 200B.C. to the 5th century A.D. We enjoyed this museum very much. We walked out and our driver was there. We headed back to Iskenderun and when we got there our driver got his picture made and his tip. We walked through the bazaars and smelled all the exotic spices. Soon it was time to catch the last shuttle and get to the ship in time for our 3:30 boarding call. We had a late lunch and Hugh napped and I read and went on top for sail away. We dressed for dinner and ate in the Lido. We went to the show, Paul Adams a comedian, who was funny but not the best we had seen. We sorted pictures and it was late when the lights went out.

Today we got up early and went to our stretch class and stayed for the abs class that followed. After breakfast on the Lido patio (we watched our ship sail into port) we showered, went on deck for pictures, and were ready to leave the ship when it cleared customs. We had to stand in line for a bit for the shuttle into town. It was sunny and quite warm even though it was only 10 am. We made it onto the 3rd bus; guess we weren’t as quick as we thought. The bus stop was in the heart of town and for the rest of the day we roamed around stopping whenever and wherever we wanted. We walked down the main, non bazaar street, and looked into some lovely shops. We stopped to peruse some “real fake watches” and soon we were in a residential neighborhood. We made pictures of the Castle gate and the fluted minaret. We walked back to Hadrian’s Gate where a beautifully decorated three-arched gate honors the 130 AD visit of the Emperor. We made our way down the Hesapci which links the gate to the waterfront. We passed by the Kesik Minare (Broken Minaret) and a series of enticing shops. Hugh bought some Turkish tea, 6 flavors, and we stopped in a travel shop and watched a video on whitewater rafting in the area. We had a great time browsing in the bazaar style shops and checking out the lovely hotels as we got nearer the waterfront. The beautiful old city walls are the best preserved antiques in the city. At the end of the street there were 2 horseshoe shaped fortifications guarding the city. These were built in the 2nd century. We loved this city and made pictures of hotels in case we decide to vacation here. There was a lovely park on the waterfront. From there we looked across at beautiful beaches, imposing cliffs, and a lively waterfront. We walked through the park and met a charming gentleman who offered to make our picture. We found out that he is an Antalya native now living in London. He told us a bit about the city and was fun to talk to. We slowly made our way through more side streets of the bazaar as we headed toward the city center. We checked out some shops, leather and spice, and got back in time to get the shuttle back to the ship. We had a late lunch; thank goodness they serve very late and then we sat in the library working on pictures and journaling while our feet rested. We had an uneventful sail away with everyone on board on time. Although we dressed for formal night we went to the Lido for soup and salad as we were not very hungry. We were the best dressed couple there and it caused quite a stir. We made it to the show and we were surprised at how much we enjoyed it. The entertainer was Mario D’Andrea, born in Italy, raised in Australia, and now living in Las Vegas. It was a standing ovation evening and these cruisers are picky. It was late so we headed to the Moonlight trio and they were on break so it was off to bed or to work on pictures!

Again today, yes 2 days in a row, we made it to exercise class. We had a good breakfast after total body conditioning and were ready to meet Nancy and Jim for a day in Bodrum. The 4 of us exited the ship and happily found out we did not have to walk over 2 miles to the castle. There was a wonderful water taxi, today’s shuttle service that dropped us at the foot of the castle and in the heart of town. When we arrived at the castle Nancy and Jim did not have Turkish lire so we made an ATM stop and when we got back (less than 5 min.) the place was inundated with tours. We made a group decision to come back later and headed to the Mausoleum. A gaping hole and scattered ruins were all that remained of King Mausolus Mausoleum. Ranked among the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, it was nearly 200 feet high and more than 100 feet long-impressive proportions even in modern times. We made pictures and read the plaques and we didn’t even have to buy a ticket. We met 4 more explorers here and we hiked straight up the narrow street to the amphitheater, another ambitious project of Mausolus. This amphitheater seated more than 13,000 people and is still used for arts festivals. We again were able to enter sans tickets and had a marvelous view of the harbor from the upper seats. We made our way down the hill and back to the castle and found it was closed for siesta. We split up and Nancy and Jim went to the internet café and Hugh and I wandered the marina filled with the grandest yachts we had ever seen including a stainless steel one. When we reunited we found out Nancy and Jim never found the internet café but had done some shopping. This time tickets were required and we entered the Castle. This is the Turkish Castle of St. Peter which was partly built of stone from the destroyed mausoleum. The castle overlooks the harbor but was not designed for maritime attacks but only for land invasions. Roman and Islamic glass artifacts were displayed in the tower base and an 11th century Byzantine ship salvaged in 1973 is also on display. The display includes the glass cargo that was recovered. We had a great time here and when we finished Jim and Hugh went back on the shuttle and Nancy and I stayed to shop or rather browse as neither of us made a purchase. We took the last shuttle back and Hugh and I went on deck for the sail away. Hugh then napped and I read by the pool. We had a late dinner and then made the last show. We seemed to constantly run into our 4 new friends, Ben & Judy and Mike and Susan. Ben and Judy are our next door neighbors and we just met (lets you know how busy we have been).

Up early for exercise and then to breakfast; this is a relaxed day for us. Because we did the all day tour of Ephesus 2 years ago we decided to spend our day exploring Kusadasi and taking in Turkish life. The ship was docked in the heart of town and we walked the streets, talking to the shopkeepers, trying on leather jackets, sunglasses, watches, etc. and drinking mint tea and Turkish coffee. I purchased 2 Pandora beads for my bracelet. This was fun for the morning but by early afternoon we headed to the ship for lunch. We then headed up the coast to Pigeon Island and there we explored a pirate castle (used against not by pirates). From here we walked back into town and checked email, FB, etc at Starbucks. It was sprinkling rain so we went back and worked on pictures and read. After our showers we walked into town and had dinner at Holiday Inn. We were the only none Turkish speakers and we got extra service from the owner. The food was terrific and we had a very pleasant time. We checked email again on our way passed Starbucks and made it to the ship just in time for the 10pm all aboard.

This was a lazy day for the Barrows. We slept until almost 9, no exercise today. Showered and fed we made our way to the library to work on pictures and journal. It is cloudy outside but warm. We watched as we sailed past some smaller Greek islands but what amazed us the most was the number of ships sailing into the same port as us. Athens will be crowed tomorrow. We were to be in dock by noon and we were on time. We made plans to meet Nancy and Jim at 1pm to explore Piraeus-tomorrow we plan to hit Athens for the whole day because we are not sailing again until the 11th. We had lunch on the Lido patio. The port authorities were slow clearing the ship and it was late before we could get off. We headed out to explore and go to the Archeological Museum. We wandered a bit before we found the museum. It was almost empty of visitors but had a lovely display of 1200-4 BC artifacts with a few 3-4 century AD things also. It was a great museum and from there we walked along the coast high in the hills. We had a beautiful view and we could see beaches, public pools, tennis courts, etc. The harbor was filled with sailboats racing and wind surfers just having fun. We were saddened by all the garbage on the street, not litter but large piles of garbage. We turned around and took another street back. We stopped at Starbucks but could not get the internet to work. We made it back to the ship in time to rest before dinner. We watched some sports and some news and then showered and dressed for dinner. On our way to the dining room we decided to eat in the Lido. It was crowded; apparently others had the same idea. There were goodbyes as 745 people were getting off in the morning. After dinner we had a meeting with the future cruise director. We did not see anything that stood out but now we have the book to study. We went to the Showroom at Sea and played cards until the orchestra concert and dancing. We got ice for coke in the room and headed to our cabin. We ordered shore excursions for Russia and Ukraine, made out our room service menu (who wants to fight the people getting off the ship) and then settled in to edit pictures and watch football. Another good day!

We were up with the phone this morning. Nancy called to say Jim was sick and staying in and that the pouring rain is a deterrent to the trip to Athens. I am so glad all 4 of us have seen these sights before. We decided to wait until after lunch to see if the weather improves to make a final decision. Breakfast in bed was served at 8 and we enjoyed every bite. Hail and heavy rain continued and we read and edited pictures. I had a lock up on my Kindle but Hugh found a way to get it ready to charge. While the Kindle charged I listened to a book on my iPod. We went to the main dining room for lunch and had a great visit with a Canadian couple. The service was good and after lunch we went to the library to edit pictures and journal. I was trying very hard to finish my Israel story. I am caught up to the second day. Mid-afternoon Hugh headed for a nap and I went to a culinary program with Nancy. Then it was back to the library and journaling as the heavy rain continued. We now have new passengers on board and at 4:15 we had the mandatory lifeboat drill. It was wet, blustery, and cold!!!! Hugh and I decided to walk through the cruise terminal to stretch our legs. We went back to the library to finish editing and journaling. Officially at 5:55 I finished with my Israel story and I am caught up to right this minute. YEA!!!! A lovely soaking bath and soon I was ready for dinner. Hugh was still MIA but I knew he would show up for dinner. Finally 6:45 Hugh was showered and dressed. Went to the dining room and had a great evening. We met 5 people who had just gotten on and it was fun to hear their experiences. From there we went to the late show. Rain is predicted tomorrow so I am not sure what we will do-again glad we have already seen Athens wonderful sights.

Today we got up late and had breakfast. The weather is much better and we teamed up with Nancy (Jim is still sick) and got on the Hop on Hop Off bus for Athens. We got off at the Acropolis and walked along the ancient Agora to the Plaka. We browsed in shops, people watched, and enjoyed the sunshine even though it was still cold. We walked around the ruins near the Plaka, made some pictures and found ourselves at the park in the middle of town. There was a metro station there and we went inside. It was clean, busy, and filled with artifacts from excavations that were wonderfully displayed; no graffiti. We caught the bus here after a long wait and had hoped for a good city tour as we made our way back to the Acropolis. It was a terrible trip as many streets were blockade for demonstrations and the traffic was horrible. We kept going in circles trying to find a way to keep the bus on route. We cut it very close but were able to get off this bus and on to the one that went back to Piraeus. My thoughts on Athens; once you have seen the historical sites there is no need to go back to that dirty crowded city, and if you haven’t seen the sights, wait until there is an improvement in the government! We made it back to the ship at last call, had lunch and watched us sail away. After lunch Hugh napped and I listened to my iPod. We had a great dinner with more new arrivals; a great Greek meal. The Captains welcome was tonight and we went, made our toast, and watched the show. Tonight’s show was a comedian and he was terrific. Hope he performs again. We walked about the shops and then off to the Lido for something to drink. Tomorrow we sail through the Dardanelles at 6:45 so we got everything ready to be on deck for this and enjoy the commentary.

Today we were up at 6 am and up in the Lido for breakfast shortly after. We are sailing through the Dardanelles this morning and we wanted some great shots. The Lido is very busy and there are lots of cameras at the ready, but it is still very dark! We ate and then decided to go to exercise class and enjoyed both the stretch class and the abs class. We then went back to the Lido for hot tea and then to the Crow’s Nest for a gorgeous view and Frank’s commentary. At 9 we went to the deck sale and Hugh got a mug and I got a hoodie (the weather is cooler and windier than expected). The sale was a big success as there were a lot of people that did not bring enough warm clothes. We showered and Hugh went to a shore excursion lecture and I journaled in the library and read my Kindle. At 11 we went to the talk on Russia. It was a great history and travel program. Frank is a real treasure and I know that he has forgotten more than I will ever know. After the lecture we went to the collector’s luncheon and it was a very good Indonesian meal including champagne. From lunch it was back to the Crow’s Nest to read and wait our arrival into Istanbul. The view was fantastic as we sailed in and docked. Frank provided commentary and we went on deck to make some pictures. You can see all the famous sites as you sail in, wow! As soon as the ship was cleared we left on our tour. We were on the bus with Jim and Nancy. Our guide Doria is cute and knowledgeable and speaks very clearly. Our first stop is the Yerebatan (Basilica) Cistern underneath the Hippodrome beside the Blue Mosque. Ornate pillars and carvings support this cavernous reservoir which is 70 ft. wide, 140 ft. long and 9 meters high. The Ottomans thought this was an underground palace when they discovered it. This was just an amazing thing to see. Our next stop was the famous Spice market. We walked across the square and saw vendors selling roasted corn on the cob, ice cream, roasted chestnuts, and of course, post cards and books. We entered the market and it was easy to see that this local market had all the trappings for tourists also. You could buy spices, oils, candies, and nuts that were for the locals but you could also buy knock-off bags, jewelry, etc. We did purchase some stuffed dates and Turkish delight. From here we took a boat tour on the Bosporus. We got to see a lot of the major sights lit for night and it was beautiful. The trip was pleasant and the weather was nice enough to go on top for photos. We were back on our ship by 9 and the Lido staff had to hustle to feed 4 busloads of hungry people. They did very well. Back in our cabin we packed and prepared for tomorrow. We will have to be on the bus by 8. After a little CNN and notes in my journal it was Good-night!

This morning we sprang out of bed at 6:30 and both of us were showered and ready for breakfast at 7. This was a good morning for breakfast in bed and we enjoyed it. By 8 we were off on our tour. Our guide was a gentleman named Davaz and he was funny but very knowledgeable. On the bus we travelled up the hill toward the Blue Mosque and we all were snapping pictures through the windows as everywhere we looked was a great shot. We walked through a lovely garden with 3 obelisks, 3 from Egypt and 1 bronze one from Greece. We got in line to enter the Mosque and removed our shoes. We were told that the beautiful prayer rugs had been removed and antimicrobial carpet put down. The official title of the Mosque is Mosque of Sultan Ahmet but is affectionately called the Blue Mosque because of all the blue tiles. This mosque was built between 1609-1616 and has 21,402 azure blue tiles which create the illusion that it is blue. The 16 balconies on its 6 minarets honor the 16 sultans of the empire. Sultan Ahmet was only 19 years old when he ordered an Islamic counterpart to the Hagia Sophia to be built. This is a grand place and a site I have seen photos of for many years. From the Blue Mosque we went to the Grand Bazaar to immerse ourselves in the Turkish culture; but first we had a carpet demonstration to go to. The carpets were beautiful and the WC was nice and we enjoyed the hot apple tea. These carpets were made for this shop (no middle man) using the labor of young women who would have been sold to older men as wives. They have a government grant for this project. We had 2 hours in the bazaar afterwards and a large part of that was spent just wandering. The bazaar encompasses 200,000 sq. meters and has approximately 5,000 stores spread out in a giant labyrinth of small streets and alleys. We did a lot of looking but no buying- a lot of junk among a few treasures. We met Nancy and Jim and after a bit of antique looking we made our way (not an easy task) back to where we met the bus. From here we went to Topkapi Palace. The first area we explored was the Harem. The women here were considered the Sultans personal property and the only men allowed in this area other than the sultan were the black eunuchs. This was also where the family lived including the Sultans mother who actually held the power (she told him whom he could marry, etc.) We saw the Sultans bedroom and the connecting courtyards with outdoor swimming pool. The Harem consists of a series of buildings and structures, connected through hallways and courtyards and contained over 400 rooms. The rooms that were decorated had elaborate furnishings and used a lot of gold. Our tour ended at the golden birdcage in one of the outer courtyards. We had free time now to visit the outlying buildings including the library, the Treasury, and the Portrait Gallery. We walked through the Religious relics and then on to the Treasury. The Imperial Treasury is a vast collection of works of art, jewelry, heirlooms of sentimental value and money belonging to the Ottoman dynasty. Since the palace became a museum, the same rooms have been used to exhibit these treasures. Most of the objects in the Imperial Treasury consisted of gifts, spoils of war, or pieces produced by palace craftsmen. Here we saw the Topkapi Dagger whose golden hilt is ornamented with 3 emeralds, topped by a golden watch with an emerald lid. The golden sheath is covered with diamonds and enamel. The most eye-catching jewel is in the third room is the 86 carat Spoonmaker’s Diamond. It is set in silver and surrounded in 2 ranks with 49 cut diamonds. Among the exhibits were two large golden candleholders, each weighing 48 kg and mounted with 6,666 cut diamonds. These were a present from Sultan Abdulmecid to the Kaaba in the holy city of Mecca and brought here at the fall of the Ottoman Empire. They were used for funerals and audiences. As we were walking through the exhibit we heard in our earpieces “blue 8 if I can’t see you you are in trouble”. We hurried back to the meeting place. On our way to lunch we made our way through the gardens and passed St. Irene’s Church (Hagia Irene). This building stands on the site of a pre-Christian temples and ranks as the first church built in Constantinople. We had a lovely lunch at the Green House Restaurant. It was a great time to rest our feet and prepare for our visit to the Hagia Sophia. Emperor Justinian ordered the construction of the great Hagia Sophia in the 6th century. It was to be the world’s most magnificent church and for 1,000 years it was the world’s largest. It took thousands of workers more than 5 years to complete. In 1453, Constantinople was conquered by the Ottoman Turks and the church was converted to a mosque. For almost 500 years it was the main mosque of Istanbul and was the model for many other mosques throughout the world. In 1935, the 1st Turkish President and founder of the Republic of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, transformed the building into a museum. The carpets were removed and the marble floor decorations appeared for the first time in centuries, while the white plaster covering many of the mosaics was removed. The Hagia Sophia is one of the greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture. The unsupported domes have withstood centuries of earthquakes and war and though they have been repaired several times, they have never fallen. We were able to go into the balcony and the mosaics at the entry and exit were magnificent. All this splendor built in the absence of modern architectural knowledge, wow! On our way back to the ship we saw the Suleman Mosque and Bazaar. We were the last group back on the ship and they were taking down parts of the gangway as we boarded (yep, late again). We went to get something to drink and headed on deck for the sail out of the harbor. The light was great for photos as we sailed around the Golden Horn and through the Bosporus (1 ½ hours). We stayed on deck until the light faded and the scenery was no longer of interest. We showered and went to the dining room for dinner. We had wonderful table companions and a long delicious dinner. We made it to the last show and then we looked at our pictures until well after midnight. Glad we are at sea tomorrow.

Today we awoke just in time for breakfast and Frank’s talk on the Ukraine. The weather is blustery, cold, and gray and the Black Sea is a little rough. I went to a cooking demo and Hugh processed all those marvelous pictures we took yesterday. We had a light lunch in anticipation of our dinner at The Pinnacle. We processed more pictures sitting in the cabin and as the day went on neither of us felt too well. We rescheduled our Pinnacle dinner until tomorrow. The ship is all battened down as the sea is getting more and more turbulent. We ate light and stayed in our cabin for the evening. We read and watched sports and did not walk around a lot as the ship is rolling quite a bit. Tomorrow we are in Sochi.

Today we have a tour of Sochi highlights. After breakfast we checked our email and had a shock, Hugh’s sister Rebecca died last evening. We have been told to continue on as she will be cremated and a memorial service will be at a later time. We decided to make this a day of celebration for the life of Rebecca. We boarded our bus and met our guide Svetlana. The bus was a bit old and the audio was not the best. Our first stop was Zelyonaya Roscha (Stalin’s Dacha). Sochi was established as a fashionable resort area under Joseph Stalin, who had his favorite dacha built in the city. This resort was built on a mountaintop with a lovely view of the sea. We were told the Stalin did not like to swim in the sea, only a pool, but enjoyed the view. The exterior is a horrid green color (chromium oxide) that hasn’t had to be painted in over 50 years. It is supposed to blend in with the environment. We entered Stalin’s study complete with a wax statue of the leader. He was a diminutive man who had a love affair with the camera. The room was large with sparse furnishings. The most interesting fact was about the sofa which had a very high back; evidently Stalin did not like his back or head exposed and required high backs on everything. Our next room was the billiard room and the highlight was Stalin’s bathroom. Evidently nothing has been changed and everyone tried to get a picture. Some of the people closed the door and sat on the commode, this was a little bit too much for me. Our next stop was the dining-conference room which was set up as a reception area. The ceilings were the highlight in this room. The woodwork is fantastic and the arched ceiling is beautiful. We saw the swimming pool which was quite deep and then it was back to the courtyard for pictures. There are palm trees and flowers and even in the cold we are experiencing they are thriving. From the Dacha we drove to the Akhun mountains and it was much windier and colder here. When we go t off the bus we saw brides having their pictures made. We walked through the little shopping area and up to the neo-Romanesque limestone tower that was built in 1936. We climbed the tower in high wind and enjoyed the view. We could see the city and the harbor but the loveliest view was of the snow capped mountains of the Caucasian range. These are high mountains going up to 18,505 feet. I am not sure how well they will look in my photos but they are lovely to see. We had time to enjoy the view, the vendors, and the brides before we headed into town for lunch. Traffic was heavy because of all the construction. Even though none of the Olympic venues will be in downtown Sochi there is a rush to spruce things up, finish hotels, bridges, and roads and to repair existing ones. There is work being done everywhere. Our lunch site was the Radisson Hotel. This is a 5 star facility but I would rather have eaten in a local restaurant. Lunch was nice and we ate with a lovely couple from Holland. The food was heavy and we tried to eat wisely as we are going to the Pinnacle for dinner. After lunch we made a stop at the Dendarium (arboretum). This park was established in 1889 and possesses the most comprehensive collection of subtropical flora in Russia, including 76 species of pine, 80 species of oak, and 24 species of palm. This is a huge green space and is very lovely. We had a Russian speaking guide who was translated by Svetlana. There were more brides here and we had a wonderful walk in the well landscaped park. Soon we had to go and we said our goodbyes to Svetlana at the port. Although we did not have a VISA we decided to take a walk around the area. We made our way to the beach. The beach itself was all rock, black-grey with white stripes and Hugh collected some for Hudson’s rock collection. No one bothered us so we continued down their Ocean Ave. and just like an American beach area there were souvenir shops, restaurants, ice cream stands, and lots of people. I can picture this as a busy fun place in summer with all the waterslides and parks. We walked from there to the new terminal and finally back on board ship. We showered and dressed for our special dinner. We made it to the Pinnacle where we celebrated Rebecca’s life and enjoyed wonderful service and a fantastic meal. Two hours later we went to the late show and had time for a hand of Kings on the Corner before the curtain went up. Late now and we finished preparing for our tour tomorrow before falling in bed.

Today we were up at 7:30 and it was so bleak outside we could not tell the time. When the ship cleared it was announced that the weather was 40 degrees with 48 knot winds and raining. We made the decision to cancel our 4 hour walking tour and stay in. We stopped to cancel the tour and had our money refunded which was a nice surprise. We had breakfast and Hugh went on deck 7 to make picture because the wind on deck 12 about blew him away. Novorossiysk is an industrial city, dependent on steel, food processing, and the production metal goods and other manufactures. Novorossiysk is not a resort town but is one of the main wine growing regions in Russia. It is also to be the Black Sea home of the Russian navy. I am not sure what we are missing but I don’t think it is worth getting sick. We sat and read emails and we were glad to hear from Hugh’s parents who sounded sad but at peace. We emailed John and Juliette and then edited pictures from yesterday. We read and then had a light lunch. The afternoon passed quickly. At dinner time we chose to eat light as the winds are still high and the seas rough. After dinner we played cards and went to the show. After the show the ship was rocking so we did not walk much and ended up back in our cabin watching CNN. It was an OK day even though we did not get off the ship.

We were up early today as we had scheduled an all day tour. After breakfast we boarded our bus and began our drive across Sevastopol. We started our sightseeing with the Admiral Nakhimov monument and passed the fortified train that transported Stalin. We climbed the hill and had a view of the east harbor and some the Russian and Ukrainian Navy vessels. Our goal for the day is 2 hours away in Yalta. On the road out of Sevastopol we passed through the Valley of Death in Balaklava. The town became famous for the Battle of Balaklava during the Crimean War thanks to the suicidal Charge of the Light Brigade, a British cavalry charge where 250 men were killed and 400 horses lost. Maya, our guide, recited Tennyson’s poem beautifully. We saw the area where there was a secret Russian submarine base until 1993. It was designed to be indestructible. The drive between Sevastopol and Yalta was one of twists and turns along coastal escarpment, with the Black Sea on one side and sheer cliffs of the Crimean Mountains rising behind. Vineyards and cypress trees lined the route. We drove through Foros and we could see the dacha where Gorbachev was held under house arrest during a Communist led coup in 1991. We also saw the Resurrection Church known as the Church on the Rock for its precipitous perch on a dramatic crag over the sea. With stunning views the whole way we arrived in Yalta, a seaside city favored for its refreshing air and stunning scenery. Our first stop was the French-chateau styled Massandra Palace. This palace was started by Russian General Vorontsov and completed by Czar Alexander III who died before its completion. Completed in 1902 the palace shows the Russian royalty’s obsession with English and French Baroque style. Stalin chose the palace as his summer residence. There is a famous winery associated with the palace. We had time to explore but it was 46 degrees with 42 knot winds, and rain. Our next stop was for lunch at the Royal Taste restaurant built in the stables of Alexander II’s summer palace. We had live entertainment and the food was fresh salad, veggies, beef in garlic sauce, and crepes with fruit. We had a bit of time to walk in the village area before we made our way to Livadia Palace. This palace was built as a summer residence for the family of Nicholas II in 1911. It is surrounded by a simple but vast garden overlooking the sea. The marble for the construction came from Sevastopol and the design is much less ostentatious than the palaces of St. Petersburg. We enter the palace through the Yalta pavilion and viewed the conference table and the rooms occupied by Roosevelt during the Yalta conference. We saw where the famous picture of the big 3 (Roosevelt, Churchill, and Stalin) was taken and also newsreel footage and many pictures. It was quite moving. Maya told us to clear our minds of modern history and prepare to step further back in time as we climbed the stairs to the Romanoff rooms. The tour had a wistful mood showing original artifacts and photographs of Russia’s last royal family. We saw the working office of Nicholas II, the formal dining room, the family dining room, and the bedrooms. My favorite was the family area with pictures done by the children and drawings done by Alexandra to illustrate stories she told the children. The family photos were moving as it was only a short time before they died. Our ride back to Sevastopol took us past the same things as the morning but was just as enjoyable. We arrived back at the ship at all aboard time and went on deck to enjoy the lovely view. Time passed and still we didn’t sail. We saw our security officers scouring the square near the ship, the Captain blew the ships horn and names were being called on the loud speakers, and still we didn’t sail. Forty-five minutes after our sail time the errant passengers strolled into the square to be quickly escorted onto the ship. Then we sailed. We stayed on deck until we were frozen and then went into the Crow’s Nest for the view. Soon it was dinner and show time. What a great day!!!

We slept in this morning as we had no tour scheduled. After breakfast we donned all the layers we had and prepared to go out in the 0degress C air and endure the 46 knot winds. As we exited the port we saw the triumphal arch at the top of the 192 Potemkin Steps (200 reduced by 8 when harbor restored). The steps at the bottom are twice as wide as those at the top. When viewed from the top the risers blend into a smooth slope. We climbed the steps and walked to the Vorontsov Palace. This palace built by Boffo in 1826, belonged to Count Vorontsov who was Pushkin’s strict and intolerant chaperone during his civil servant years. From the palace we walked out on the Mother-in-law Bridge built by Vorontsov to ensure that his mother-in-law could always get home and today newlyweds place a lock on the bridge to ensure happiness everlasting. Our next stop was the Pasayd, a narrow baroque lane, which has been a shopping area since well before the revolution. From here we walked in the City (park) Gardens where we saw fountains, summerhouses, and sculpture. We walked through the passage mall over to a beautiful old church and the flower market. There were vendors selling lace, dolls, and Russian money. Not much haggling as no spoke English. There were also artist selling their wares but the paintings were on stretched canvas and difficult to take on a plane. We continued our adventure down a large pedestrian street with designer shops, Hilfiger to Armani, beautiful furs, leather goods, boots, etc. but not for our climate. Our next stop was Odessa’s architectural highlight, the lavish Opera House, one of the finest in Europe. Designed in 1884 by Viennese architects and recently restored, it has an interior style that suggests the Vienna Opera House. Next we saw the City Hall which looked surprisingly like a museum, white and grand. The cannon out front is British and was salvaged from the frigate Tiger, sunk in the Crimean War. The cold and the wind finally got to us and we made our way back to the port. We had a very late lunch and went on deck to make some panoramic shots before we shed our layers. We spent the afternoon editing pictures and journaling; glad to be out of the cold. In the evening we had a full table at dinner; 2 physicians from Canada, and 4 Floridians. The show this evening was an electric cello player and after about ½ hour we snuck out to play cards. Great day even with the wind and cold.

We slept in this morning and it was nice. Today is my mom’s birthday and we have no internet connection-Happy Birthday Mom!! This morning I went to a crafts class where we made lovely jeweled lanyard for our keycards; no more misplacing it. After some journaling, Hugh and I went to the Mariner Society awards presentation. We sat with Doug and Lynne and all 4 of us got bronze medals for over 100 days at sea. One hundred days would sound impressive but there was a couple that had 987 days each and many with well over 300. From the presentation we went to a special luncheon. We enjoyed the company and the food and before we finished dessert we were sailing through the Bosporus. Frank was doing commentary and we made some photos (not as many as our 1st sail through). Istanbul was still impressive as we made our way past. Hugh took a nap and I read and journaled in the library. I spent several hours in the Crow’s Nest just enjoying the view while Hugh made some photos and read. It was formal night and we dressed up. We went to a variety show before dinner and enjoyed the pianist and the comedian. The main dining room was filled and we decided to go to the Lido. We had a light dinner, played cards, and watched the comedian at the 2nd show. It was late when we made it to our cabin but we played a hand of Kings on the Corner before bed.

Today we woke up to a sunny day. We were already docked in Dikili and after breakfast we left the ship to explore. Dikili is located on the Aegean Sea and is the seaport to Bergamon. We did not have a tour and spent the first hours of our visit just walking along the seashore recharging our batteries (we are solar powered and the wind, cold, and rain had depleted us). We walked through the streets of town looking into pastry shops, fish shops, butcher, and variety stores. This is not a tourist trap and the businesses are for the locals. What fun to see how a Turkish community operates. Before long we were on the seashore on the opposite side of town. There was a beautiful seaside walkway and we made it all to way to the point and back (over 3 miles) before going back to the ship for lunch. We had a light lunch with a delightful couple from CA and then decided to go out and do the walk again. This time we power walked it and we were thirsty and hot when we arrived in town. We stopped for sodas and then sat in the square and people watched. We strolled back to the ship and had time to sit in the library and journal and edit pictures before we sailed. I went to a culinary class and we made a spicy Cioppino. It was excellent! We rested a bit before dressing for dinner. We went to the early show and then up to the Lido for dinner. After dinner we took our tea to the Showroom at Sea and played cards until the late show. After the show we sat and played cards and talked about our lovely sunny day!

Restful morning, good breakfast, and sunshine; what more could one want. We headed into town via the beach road and wandered through small alleyways filled with stores and then into the main shopping and bazaar area. Today we are just playing and Hugh enjoyed talking to the sales people. We came across a jeweler and I was able to get a suitcase charm for my Pandora bracelet. We walked some more and soon decided to go back to the ship for soup and removal of a clothing layer (sun is very warm). Early in the afternoon we hiked up the mountain for a beautiful view of the harbor. We were headed for the island beyond Pigeon Island but found once we scaled the hill that it was a gated resort so we hiked down into town again. We walked through the main area and I bought a watch (my latest Rolex, sport edition, FAKE). We met Nancy and Jim and walked with them a bit and then Hugh and I walked down the beach and enjoyed watching Turkish families enjoying a beach afternoon. We picked up our computer and went to a bar with Wi-Fi and took our time going through emails, facebook, and bill paying. We enjoyed talking to Don, aka Dr. Boogie, from our ship. We decided to eat in town but by dinner time the wind had picked up and it was much to cool to sit outside (we needed that layer we had removed earlier). We went back to the ship in time to make it to The Liars Club. This was a funny hour of some crazy stories and a lot of improvisation . We found out that our very British cruise director has a wonderful sense of humor. We had dinner, played cards and talked to Shannon, our ships photographer, about his marvelous pictures. Soon it was bedtime. We read and rehashed our relaxing day until well after midnight.

We had another relaxing morning forgoing exercise. At 10 I went on a kitchen tour and then to an cooking class. Hugh went to hear Frank’s talk on Paris. We met for lunch and then I sat by the pool and read and Hugh practiced his typing with Mavis Beacon. We idled the afternoon away and soon it was time to dress for dinner. It was another formal night and we were going to the Pinnacle again. Our meal was wonderful but the restaurant was more crowded than usual and the staff apologized for the service not being as prompt as usual. We lingered over cappuccino and chocolate soufflé and crème brulee. We made it to the late show and were glad we did. It was a production show we had seen on the first part of the trip but it was much, much better this time. We talked to friends on our way to our cabin and everyone seems sad that the trip is almost over.

We woke up this morning to a bright sunny day and a major cold for Hugh. We packed our bags and only needed to add our toiletries to our carry-ons. We had breakfast and then went to our disembarkation lecture. We then went on deck to see the Strait of Messina. Hugh felt bad and went to the room and I went to a cooking class. I met Hugh in the Lido for lunch and we listened to the commentary on the Stromboli area. Nancy and Jim joined us and the guys decided they were ready for home but we girls would have stayed longer. Hugh went to the cabin for a nap and I sat outside and did my bible study and journaled. I also went to hear Frank’s talk “Why We Love the Royals”. Later in the afternoon I printed boarding passes, joined Hugh for a little CNN and a little ESPN. Because Hugh felt bad we had an early dinner and he stayed in the cabin while I went to the last show. I said goodbyes and when I got back to the cabin we put the last few things in our bags and put them outside the door. We read until we fell asleep.

Today we got up early and Hugh was feeling very bad. We showered and dressed for our flight. After a delicious eggs Benedict breakfast we grabbed our carry-ons and went out to wait for our blue 2 to be called. We left the ship and our luggage was waiting inside the terminal. Before long we were on the bus to the airport. We were concerned about time but HAL was sure they had allowed us plenty. When we got to the airport the check-in lines were extremely long and once our bags were checked we had a mile long security line to clear. We finally cleared and found our gate just in time to walk on the plane. What can I say about a 10 hour 45 min. flight except that it was about 9 hours too long. Hugh was miserable and was so glad when we landed and cleared customs. We caught the bus to our parking lot and after the luggage was stored I drove home. We arrived safely, unpacked the truck, and had a light dinner. It was not too long before we were ready for bed, me in the master bedroom and Hugh in the guest room. It is early morning in Rome and we are exhausted. /susan